Maine Wine Discoveries

Cellardoor Winery

Cellardoor Winery, Copyright Bangor Daily News / Bridget Brown

My recent trip to Maine, as detailed in this month’s Hideaway Report, certainly rewarded my search for interesting wines and spirits.

An easy drive from Camden in Lincolnville, Cellardoor Winery (367 Youngtown Road; Tel. (207) 763-4478) rivals some facilities I’ve seen in Napa, with a barn-like tasting room filled with books and wine-related items for sale, and a judicious selection of sandwiches and salads that you can take to the outside deck for the fine views of the vineyards.

Two favorites from my tasting:  The Triology Blanc, an appealing dry white made from a blend of Rhône varietals Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne; and the Petit Verdot, a pleasing red made from Petit Verdot given a bracing boost  from the addition of Mourvèdre.

Farther inland in Union, Sweetgrass Farm Winery & Distillery (347 Carroll Road; Tel. (207) 785-3024) makes fruit-based wines that I found interesting, if not compelling.  But its Back River gin won me over completely, being a finely crafted spirit with just the right notes of juniper and herbs.

En route from Camden down to Kennebunkport, we couldn’t resist the small roadside tasting room of Oyster River Winegrowers (Route 1 at 131 North in Thomaston; Tel. (207) 354-7177).  A new venture, it is waiting for its vineyards to mature but is making wines from purchased grapes in the interim, with very promising results. We went home with a bottle each of the tasty, well-balanced Village Red and the very respectable Merlot, which could stand up to many well-established competitors.

-A.H.

 

Five Standout Chilean Wines

Clos Apalta Winery, Chile

Clos Apalta Winery, Colchagua Valley, Chile

Aside from the wines I cite in the most recent Hideaway Report, here are five Chilean bottles that I remember with particular pleasure.

  • 2011 Amaral Sauvignon Blanc—Lovely light floral nose with a citrus edge. On the palate, there is the taste of passion fruit, a hint of grapefruit and just an intriguing trace of chili. This is a well-balanced wine that will linger in your mouth.
  • 2010 Casa Silva Chardonnay—If you are used to big, buttery California Chards, you will find this understated but appealing. You’ll find aromas of melon and peach with tastes of apple and a hint of citrus bite at the end. Well worth trying.
  • 2010 Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Carmenere—If you doubt that Carmenere can yield a terrific wine, this should win you over. Very intense nose of blackberries and cassis with just a touch of chocolate and coffee. This is extremely supple on the palate with the same blackberry characteristics and just a quiet under-note of chocolate. A smooth, delicious wine.
  • 2010 Perez Cruz Cabernet Sauvignon—This wine, still young, is nonetheless ready for pleasurable drinking. On the nose, you’ll get a strong blackberry presence with just a bit of spicy eucalyptus. The taste has the same blackberry elements but more concentrated, a velvet texture and a fine balance of fruit and tannins.
  • 2010 Casa Silva Late Harvest—A luscious blend of Gewürztraminer and Semillon, this is a delightful surprise. A thoroughly engaging dessert wine, it has aromas of honey and ripe melon and has a slightly smoky honeyed palate. I will definitely be looking for this at my local wine shop.

A Cape Winelands Classic: Duck Breast With Kumquat Chutney

South African kumquats and Pinot Noir grapes

South African kumquats and Pinot Noir grapes

Chef Lennard Marais heads the kitchen at La Residence hotel in Franschhoek, South Africa. He uses only the best local and seasonal produce to create wonderful Cape Winelands dishes for guests, taking many of his cues from the hotel’s garden and surrounding vineyards.

Here, he shares his new (and mouthwatering) recipe for Duck Breast With Kumquat Chutney, prepared especially for Andrew Harper readers.

DUCK BREAST WITH KUMQUAT CHUTNEY

A recent stroll through our garden showed that one can’t miss the vibrant yellowish-orange kumquat fruits. I have seen guests and staff happily eating them skin and all! In our kitchen, we use them for candying, preserves, marmalade and jelly. Kumquats are the ideal fruit to use when making traditional sweet-and-sour Cape chutney. This is the perfect accompaniment to serve with spiced duck breast, a wonderful French-inspired Cape Winelands dish!

Lennard Marais, Executive Chef at La Residence

Ingredients:

Duck:

-¼ cup fresh lime juice

 -1 tablespoon grated peeled fresh ginger         

 -1 tablespoon olive oil

-3 garlic cloves, crushed

-6 boneless duck breasts

-¼ teaspoon salt

Chutney:

-1 cup kumquats, halved and seeded

-2/3 cup sugar

-½ cup white wine vinegar                  

 -¼ cup finely chopped red onion

 -1 teaspoon minced peeled fresh ginger

 -½ chili, finely chopped

-½ cup dried cherries or cranberries

-¼ cup finely chopped fresh basil

-2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley

-2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Preparation

Duck:

Combine the lime juice, fresh ginger, olive oil and crushed garlic in a zip-top plastic bag. Add the duck, seal the bag and marinate in the refrigerator for 2 hours. Remove the duck from the marinade and sprinkle it with salt. Heat a large non-stick skillet over medium high heat with a little olive oil. Add the duck and cook on each side until desired degree of doneness. (Medium rare is about 6 minutes.)

Chutney:

Combine the kumquats, sugar, white wine vinegar, red onion, ginger and chili in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat and simmer for 40 minutes. Add the cherries/cranberries and simmer for a further 15 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the basil, parsley and lime juice.

Spoon the chutney over the duck breast and serve with blanched green beans.

Wine Pairing Suggestion:

A light Pinot Noir is a classic accompaniment to most duck dishes. The fruitiness and berry notes in the wine compliment the gamey flavor of the meat. For this particular recipe, a spicy and warming new world Pinot Noir would work nicely with the ginger, garlic and cloves.

Try: Bouchard Finlayson Galpin Peak Pinot Noir 2009.