Haunted Hotels: Austin's The Driskill

The Driskill, Austin

 

Happy Halloween! While Mr. Harper has yet to make an incognito inspection of the Lizzie Borden Bed & Breakfast in Fall River, Massachusetts, he recommends a number of notably haunted properties, including Aspen’s Hotel Jerome (avoid Room 310) and Washington, D.C.’s The Hay-Adams (be careful during first two weeks of December). Austin’s The Driskill has a number of long-term paranormal residents: the famous “suicide brides” of Room 525, a senator’s young daughter who died on the grand staircase chasing a ball, a railroad ticket agent named P.J. Lawless (he  lived in the hotel for many years, and still wears his uniform) and the spirt of Colonel Driskill himself.

From the Harper Collection:

“Renovated landmark hotel built in 1886 on Sixth Street in the heart of downtown Austin. The 189 guest rooms are housed in two adjoining buildings, the Historic Wing (dating from 1886) and the Tower (built in 1929). Standard amenities and details include custom beds with plush linens, work desks, and custom vanities, showers and tubs (many rooms in the historic wing retain late 19th-century architectural elements). Signature suites, located on the top floors, afford views of downtown and feature baths with art deco tiling; the Lyndon and Lady Bird Johnson Presidential Suite has a balcony overlooking Sixth Street and a 10-foot stained-glass window in the bath. The Driskill Grill receives consistent accolades for its eclectic farm-to-table cuisine.”

 

 

 

 

explora Patagonia Relaunches

Longtime Harper favorite explora Patagonia has recently completed a two-month renovation of Hotel Salto Chico  in the heart of Torres del Paine National Park, Chile. This is the first time that the lodge has been closed for renovation since it opened in 1993.

New furnishings and eco-friendly LED lighting now grace the hotel’s public spaces. The Casa de Baños del Ona spa, which sits 300 feet from the lodge, has been dramatically expanded to include a Turkish bath and several new spa tubs overlooking Lake Pehoe.  A wine bar in the dining room will host tastings and culinary events throughout the year.

For a look at the improvements, which appear to be very nice indeed, please see the hotel’s new slideshow.

New York Theater Dining

DB Bistro Moderne, New York

With the new Broadway season under way, I thought I might recommend a few of my favorite places for pre- and post-theater dining. An advance word: I am not necessarily holding these up as paragons of fine dining (although they all have their merits). When eating before a show, you want to make sure you’re at a restaurant that understands this and knows how to move you along. After a show, I think the atmosphere is more important, and I’ve always enjoyed being in places where theater folk may drop in, not because I need to see a celebrity, but because it adds to the fun.

-A.H.

 Pre-Theater

I have great affection for Angus McIndoe (258 West 44th Street; 212-221-9222), both the man and the place. McIndoe for many years was the congenial host at the estimable Joe Allen (see Post-Theater), then struck out on his own and opened this lively spot. The drinks are generous and the food is delicious — I have enjoyed the burger, Cajun seafood pie, New York strip steak and trout en papillote in the past.

If you are seeing a show in the West 40s, give serious consideration to db Bistro Moderne (55 West 44th Street; 212-391-2400). The “db” is for star chef Daniel Boulud, and this outpost of his culinary empire is a comfortable, stylish place where the menu includes the notorious “db burger” (a sirloin patty stuffed with braised short ribs, foie gras and black truffles), as well as a lovely organic chicken breast. For a starter, I suggest the thin-crust Alsatian tart with cheese, bacon and onions.

A relatively new discovery for me, ViceVersa (325 West 51st Street; 212-399-9291) is a sleek, smart and contemporary Italian restaurant with a very engaging staff. My choice for a starter is usually the salumi platter with stracciatella cheese, caponatina and marinated olives. I then almost invariably order the unusual casoncelli pasta stuffed with a delicious mix of veal, raisins and crushed amaretto cookies dressed with sage butter and pancetta. It is one of my favorite pasta dishes anywhere.

The Theatre District used to have many charming French restaurants with excellent service and delicious food, wonderful places to visit before or after a show. That has changed, and I particularly miss Les Pyrenees, my favorite, and Pierre au Tunnel. One worthy holdout is Chez Napoléon (365 West 50th Street; 212-265-6980). In this warm and welcoming restaurant, do not look for cutting-edge cuisine. Instead you’ll find just wonderful renditions of classic French cooking, including starters such as onion soup gratinée, vichyssoise and country pâté, and main courses such as boeuf bourguignon, sole meunière, steak au poivre and rack of lamb. You can almost hear Julia crying, “Bon appétit!”

Post-Theater

My preference is generally to eat before a show — not too heavy, though. But there are times when a meal seems the best choice for a post-show post-mortem, and in those cases, I love to go to Joe Allen (326 West 46th Street; 212-581-6464). With a long, lively bar and brick-lined walls (festively hung with framed posters of the most notorious flops in Broadway history), it serves a menu that is full of comforting favorites: black-bean soup, buffalo wings, fried calamari; and main courses such as New York strip steak, grilled marinated free-range chicken and a terrific hamburger (although I’ve been known to opt for the meatloaf instead). And this is not a reason to visit, but show folk often turn up.

If I’m in the mood for light meal after the theater, I’ll often head to a spot that I particularly like: Bar Centrale (324 West 46th Street; 212-581-3130). There is no sign, but it’s right up a flight of stairs next to Joe Allen (who owns it as well). Intimate, with a small bar and low-key jazz in the background, it is the perfect spot for a cocktail and little nibbles — say, some fresh oysters — or the excellent Baja fish tacos, pulled pork sandwich or flatbread pizza. Reservations are a must.

Win a Stay at Lake Placid Lodge, New York

Enter here to win a three-night stay at Lake Placid Lodge, New York.

According to Andrew Harper, “Lake Placid Lodge is an iconic American resort, and its restoration has been a remarkable success.”

This promotion ends on November 7, 2011 and includes:

  • Three night stay in the Premier Suite, Whiteface
  • Luxurious suite, complete with wood burning fireplace and a deep soaking tub
  • Made to order breakfast each morning
  • All activities on property
  • Private hacker craft tour of Lake Placid with champagne
  • A one-year Andrew Harper Premier Online membership. (Or for existing Andrew Harper members, a complimentary additional year of membership!)

Package subject to availability, which may be limited. Non-transferable, no cash alternative.

Deadline to enter is November 7, 2011. No purchase necessary.

Click here to see the complete rules and regulations.

Video: Jumby Bay, Antigua

 

 

 

 

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As reviewed in the October 2011 Hideaway Report.

Notable November Events

Loi Krathong Festival, Chiang Mai

 

October 27 – April 2: New York’s Neue Galerie, one of the city’s finest small museums, marks its 10th anniversary this month with a special exhibition of works from the collection of the museum’s founder, Ronald S. Lauder. Although the Neue Galerie focuses on Austrian and German art, this exhibition will display a wide array of fascinating works from Lauder’s collection, ranging from a third-century Celtic belt buckle to Matisse and Cézanne paintings. Viennese-style torte in the museum’s Café Sabarsky is a must.

October 31 – November 9: Tourists and locals flock to the edge of the Thar Desert (two and a half hours outside Jaipur) for the annual Pushkar Camel Fair. The lively camel races tend to be the most popular events, but visitors can also take hot air balloon rides and camel treks into the desert.

November 3-5: On one of California’s most beautiful stretches of coastline, the Big Sur Food & Wine Festival organizes wine tastings, winemaker dinners, cooking classes, beer tastings and even “hiking with stemware” featuring the wines of Byron Kosuge.

November 10: Loi Krathong, the “Festival of Light,” is celebrated annually throughout Thailand with fireworks and elaborately decorated floating candles. Sukhothai offers perhaps the most traditional celebration, with hundreds of candles illuminating a pond in the ancient city’s Historical Park, but Chiang Mai surely has the most spectacular event. Here, thousands of people launch illuminated paper lanterns into the sky, which gracefully float about like so many glowing jellyfish. Few events can rival this festival’s dreamlike beauty.

November 10-14: Auto enthusiasts roll into the United Arab Emirates for the biennial Dubai International Motor Show. Major car companies such as Bugatti, Lotus, Lamborghini, Aston Martin, Maserati and Kia unveil new models and concept cars during this glittering five-day event.

November 12-13: It’s spring in Australia, and the Macedon Ranges wine region (an hour north of Melbourne) celebrates with the Budburst Wine & Food Festival. The purchase of a tasting glass allows festivalgoers to taste wines at all of the participating wineries. Local restaurants host winemaker dinners and special degustation menus.

November 16: The release of this year’s Beaujolais Nouveau is heralded with much fanfare in Beaujeu, 45 minutes from the Château de Bagnols. After an evening of festivities and a torchlight parade, giant barrels of the wine are tapped at midnight, accompanied by fireworks.

 

Various Dates: Toward the end of November, Christmas markets across Europe start to welcome merrymakers with mulled wine, marzipan pigs and other seasonal treats. These festive, family-friendly outdoor markets are a shopper’s delight, with plenty of ornaments, toys and local crafts for sale. Chicago also hosts a surprisingly authentic Christmas market from Thanksgiving weekend to December 23.

Friday Escape: The Wakaya Club & Spa, Fiji

 

The Wakaya Club & Spa, Fiji

From the Harper Collection:

“Extraordinary resort on a remote 2,200-acre private island. Emerald lagoons and shell-strewn beaches edge a forested and mountainous interior that teems with exotic birds. Ten air-conditioned cottage suites (bures) are set amid 200 acres of lawns; each unit features a rattan-furnished living room, oceanview porch and lavish bath with a soaking tub and open-air lava-rock shower. A restaurant pavilion, decorated with Melanesian artifacts, offers Fijian/Continental meals that emphasize fresh seafood, local game and organic produce. A recreation bure features the owner’s personal art collection, a sunken bar and game room; also communications center. Calm ocean swimming, freshwater grotto-like pool, couple’s spa, fitness pavilion, scuba/snorkeling excursions, deep-sea fishing, escorted nature hikes, tennis on night-lit Wimbledon-Tex court, golf on an informal 9-hole course winding through former coconut plantation (Ping clubs/caddies provided). Five-night minimum stay recommended. No children under age 16. Wakaya is reached from Nadi International Airport via the resort’s eight-seat Cessna Grand Caravan aircraft (40 minutes, $960 per couple round-trip).”

Chez Panisse at 40

 

Most formal restaurants in the United States extol the virtues of their seasonal produce and locally sourced ingredients as a matter of course. Berkeley’s Chez Panisse is largely responsible for this. The birthplace of “California Cuisine” has also given rise to a constellation of local gourmet enterprises: The Acme Bread Company, Greens, Zuni Café and Cowgirl Creamery, among others. On the East Coast, Dan Barber and April Bloomfield are alums.

The restaurant celebrated its 40th anniversary this year with a series of well-deserved parties. Perhaps more notably, the festivities raised more than $500,000 for the Edible Schoolyard Project, which hopes to improve the diets of American schoolchildren.

Lately there have been grumbles in the food press about Chez Panisse: the food is plain and overpriced; the attitude is sanctimonious. Last year, the restaurant lost its Michelin star. Given that every place can have an off night, we thoroughly enjoyed our recent dinner in the warm, wood-lined environs of the downstairs restaurant (the more informal café sits above).

A vividly green spinach soufflé with purslane, tomatoes and cucumbers tasted rich and vegetal. Meyer lemons and roasted figs lent some citrus tang to a lightly breaded petrale sole. The main course was hearty, Gallic and wonderful: grilled duck breast with confit and fried potatoes and watercress, along with a bottle of Anderson Valley Pinot Noir.  Apple and quince tart with Armagnac ice cream followed. A long, lingering cup of French press concluded the set menu.

We strolled out, happy and satisfied, into a foggy Northern California night. Here’s to another 40.

 

 

Recent Member Comments: Le Taha'a, Hôtel San Régis, The Romanos and More

Le Taha'a Island Resort & Spa

 

Le Taha’a Island Resort & Spa, French Polynesia

“Had a wonderful three-night stay at Le Taha’a last week, booked through AH. Received an upgrade and late checkout, a complimentary bottle of Taittinger and lovely massages. The staff is excellent and the overwater bungalows are gorgeous. The snorkeling in the coral garden was world-class, and even the food, which I had read mixed reviews of, was quite good. We took a private trip to the pearl farm on Tahaa and I came back with a stunning string of pearls. The only downside was that we couldn’t stay longer. Next time!”

Hôtel San Régis, Paris

“After three nights at the San Régis, my husband and I could not have been more pleased with the staff and their wonderful attentiveness and service. They were so helpful with any type of request, and even those we hadn’t thought of yet. It is truly an exceptional hotel in a wonderful location, and the suites are so quiet and luxurious! We are anxious to return to Paris and the many offerings of the San Régis.”

The Romanos, Costa Navarino, Greece

“Recently stayed at The Romanos and would rate it 95 out of 100. The resort is exquisite … probably one of the most beautiful hotels I’ve seen. All of the restaurants have very good food (we dined in all except the American Diner, which was not appealing to our American family visiting Greece!). We found the service to be exceptional and enjoyed the breathtaking views and décor. It’s very family-friendly, but still upscale enough to please the parents! The area is lovely and interesting for sightseeing, having a simple meal in town and exploring. Note that we drove from Athens airport and most of the three-hour ride was scenic and enjoyable. This is definitely one of the top hotels in Greece.”

Hotel Splendido, Italy

“I can only hope to go to Heaven and be as happy there as I am whenever I’m at Splendido! I’ve been fortunate to see many places so far in my lifetime, but each year I’m lucky enough to return here. I still stand on my terrace each evening marveling at the view and the lights on Monte Portofino. It never bores me. The staff is delightful. As I’ve heard some say, and I would agree, Antonio, their head barman of 41 years, is Splendido’s 6th star.”

Mombo & Little Mombo Camp, Botswana

“I stayed at Little Mombo last year, and my partner and I both agree it was probably the best travel experience of our lives. Everything about the property is spectacular, but really it’s the location that takes this from being just another great safari camp to out-of-this-world amazing. When we describe our game drives and experiences to other people, I even have to admit we sound like we’re making it all up. We thought our trip to southern Africa was going to be a once-in-a-lifetime trip, but we loved it so much that we’re going back to Botswana and Little Mombo again next year (and adding Zarafa Camp this time around, as well as several camps in Namibia).”

 

Video: India's Kanha National Park

 

 

 

 

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Until recently, India’s wildlife reserves could not boast lodges or camps that approached the sophistication of those found in Africa. Things began to change when Amanresorts and Oberoi Hotels both opened luxury camps adjacent to Ranthambore National Park in Rajasthan. Now, Taj Hotels has entered into partnership with &Beyond, a Johannesburg-based safari company, to create four stylish and comfortable new lodges in the central state of Madhya Pradesh.

Traditionally, Indian wildlife reserves have suffered by comparison with the great safari areas of Africa. True, the subcontinent’s parks tend to be smaller and are often hemmed in by human habitation. And generally, their ecosystems contain fewer large mammal species than you will find in the Serengeti. Nonetheless, the best Indian reserves remain stirringly beautiful. Of course, they have one priceless asset: the planet’s top predator, the magnificent Royal Bengal tiger, which can weigh in at more than 500 pounds and measure 11 feet from nose to tail.

India’s first national park, Corbett, opened in 1936 in the foothills of the Himalayas. The region has gripped the imaginations of generations of children, thanks to Jim Corbett’s classic book, “Man-Eaters of Kumaon.” Today, however, the greatest (and the best-run) of the country’s reserves is Kanha National Park, a remote 750-square-mile tract of forest in Madhya Pradesh, crisscrossed by undulating rocky ridges and dotted with grassy meadows and small lakes, where large herds of herbivores and more than 300 bird species congregate to drink and to feed.

Kanha was declared a park in 1955, and it, too, enjoys a distinguished literary history, having been the inspiration for Rudyard Kipling’s “The Jungle Book.” Here, 116 years after Mowgli’s debut, the real-life Shere Khan continues to stalk his prey along the reedy margins of the lagoons. In fact, Kanha today holds about 130 tigers, as well as around 80 leopard and more than 100 sloth bear. Its most abundant prey species include over 20,000 spotted deer (chital), 2,000 gaur (the world’s largest bovine, bigger even than the African buffalo) and 1,200 swamp deer (barasingha), narrowly saved from extinction and now found nowhere else.

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