Snapshots From a Year of Travel

As we conclude our Grand Awards month, I hope you enjoy this slideshow of photographs that I took during a very busy year of travel. Next month, we head to Botswana, South Africa and Turks and Caicos.
-A.H.

Wildfires In Patagonia

I have just returned from a multi-week stay in Chile, which included several days near the spectacular Torres del Paine National Park. On December 27, a fire broke out near the southern end of Lake Grey in the heart of the park. Abetted by drought conditions and strong winds, it was not brought under control until early January and destroyed close to 40,000 acres of pristine grasslands and old-growth forests.

Several hotels, including the beautiful new Tierra Patagonia on the eastern end of Lake Sarmiento and the highly respected Salto Chico, were evacuated. The Tierra Patagonia, far from the range of the fire, reopened on January 4. The Salto Chico, which was miraculously spared but did suffer smoke damage to some of its interior, announced recently that it will officially reopen on February 23.

A large section of the eastern part of the park was reopened on January 4, and during my stay, I was able to visit those sections with their breathtaking views of the impressive Torres — the unique granite towers that are the iconic sight of the park — as well as the striking snowcapped Massif. I also went on several beautiful hikes that took us through untouched landscape with its bounty of birdlife (multiple condor sightings) and animals, including the llama-like guanacos, foxes, wild hares and more. Although the heart of the park was closed, I in no way felt that I had been shortchanged.

On January 17, the president of Chile, Sebastian Pinera, announced the opening of the southern part of the park, which in effect means that most of it is now open to visitors (the hiking and mountain trails most severely affected will remain closed for the time being). This means that you can now get to popular spots such as the French Valley and the adjacent so-called British and Italian camping sites, and there will be vehicular access to Lake Grey, with is stunning glacier.

From my experience in the park area just after the fire and the partial reopening, and based on the announcement by President Pinera, I would say that travelers can visit the Torres del Paine area with the certainty of having unforgettable experiences.

-A.H.

Austin Food & Wine Festival


The Austin Food & Wine Festival recently announced a panel of celebrity chefs and restaurateurs from around the country, establishing itself as one of the most prominent events for foodies and gourmands in the area.

Like the Aspen Food & Wine Classic, the collaboration between Food & Wine magazine and C3 Presents (the company behind Austin City Limits Music Festival) features a schedule of top-tier chefs and James Beard Foundation Award winners and nominees, and promises to draw a host of food and wine aficionados to the festival.

The event will be held April 27-29, 2012, and will take place primarily at downtown Austin’s Republic Square Park and Auditorium Shores on Lady Bird Lake.

VIP tickets are $850 and include an exclusive Friday evening VIP kickoff event with singer Lucinda Williams, reserved access to cooking demos and wine seminars, VIP lounge access, preferred seating and parking, private tastings and a Celebrity Chef VIP event.

Top names include Masaharu Morimoto, Gail Simmons, Andrew Zimmern, Marcus Samuelsson and Jonathan Waxman, who are all holding cooking workshops or teaching seminars throughout the weekend.

A nationally recognized panel of Texas chefs and restaurateurs will be on hand, including Tyson Cole, owner/chef of Uchi and Uchiko in Austin and Tim Love, Iron Chef champion and owner/chef of The Lonesome Dove Western Bistro and The Love Shack in Fort Worth.  Other local names include David Bull (Congress), Paul Qui (Uchiko, Top Chef), Bryce Gilmore (Barley Swine), Rene Ortiz (La Condesa) and Aaron Franklin (Franklin BBQ).

Featuring a schedule of hands-on demos and tastings, the festival offers attendees the chance to participate in everything from building a fire and grilling with Tim Love, to filleting the perfect fish for sushi rolls with Tyson Cole.  There are also numerous events scheduled to taste wines from around the world, including some of the Lone Star State’s own varietals.

If you plan to visit Austin for the weekend, The Driskill and Four Seasons Austin, both Harper-recommended, are also Austin Food & Wine Festival partner hotels.

For more information regarding the event, visit the Austin Food & Wine Festival website.

Notable February Events: The Year of the Dragon

Chinese New Year Fireworks over Hong Kong

Numerous cities around the world mark Chinese New Year with parades, fireworks, boat races and special culinary treats. On January 23, the Year of the Rabbit gave way to the Year of the Dragon, but the festivities will last for weeks. On February 4 and 5, Sydney, Australia, hosts dragon boat races against the spectacular backdrop of Darling Harbour. San Francisco’s illuminated night parade, held on February 11, is reputedly the largest New Year’s celebration outside Asia. But to experience “the grandest street and floats parade in Asia,” head to Singapore for the wildly colorful Chingay Parade, held February 3-4.

February 3-5: During the Chiang Mai Flower Festival, this northern Thai city explodes with countless gorgeous blossoms, including hundreds of species of orchids. The event culminates with a procession of floats bearing elaborate sculptures made from local flowers.

February 10-14: Even the most addicted chocoholics will get their fill at Cioccolentino, a five-day chocolate extravaganza in Terni, the southern Umbrian town where St. Valentine himself is buried. Festival attendees can enjoy watching chocolate-making competitions and demonstrations, concerts, and, of course, a tasting or two.

February 11: Relive the splendor of pre-war Vienna at the Johann Strauss Ball, held annually in the opulent Kursalon. For €115, guests sit down to a formal three-course meal in the Schubert or Lehar Hall before dancing the night away in one of the four ballrooms. Instructors are on hand to help you perfect your waltz, or escape the ubiquitous 3/4 time in a neighboring ballroom, where people shimmy to hits from the 70s, 80s and 90s.

February 11-14: The little town of Saint-Valentin near the Loire Valley in France does not miss the opportunity to capitalize on its name. Special markets, dinners and presentations of “Certificats aux Amoureaux” take place on the weekend before Valentine’s Day, February 11-12, as well as the day itself. Villagers decorate their homes with flowers, and free concerts serenade couples.

February 21: The days (and even weeks) leading up to Mardi Gras are always rich with festivities, most famously in New Orleans, Rio de Janeiro and Venice. But countless cities around the world celebrate the day with colorful parades, concerts and parties. A selection of some alternative events:

Feb. 10-21: Carnaveles in Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Feb. 16-21: Karveval in Cologne, Germany

Feb. 17-21: Carnival in Nadur, Gozo, Malta

Feb. 17-22: Carnaval in Paraty, Brazil

Feb. 26-Mar. 1: Basler Fasnacht in Basel, Switzerland

February 28-June 3: In an exhibition titled “The Steins Collect,” the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York exhibits some 200 works collected by Gertrude Stein and her family, demonstrating the influence they had on the artists of their day. The show focuses on works by Matisse and Picasso, but other major artists such as Juan Gris and Pierre Bonnard will also be represented.

Sundance Film Festival: Park City Restaurants

Glitretind Restaurant, Stein Eriksen Lodge

 

You may have better luck with restaurant tables than hotel rooms in Park City this week.  Should you be visiting for the Sundance Film Festival, I heartily recommend the three following restaurants, which I recently reviewed in the Hideaway Report as part of my Deer Valley coverage.

-A.H.

Zoom

In addition to the Sundance Film Festival, Robert Redford has given Park City a delightful restaurant, Zoom, set within the atmospheric old Union Pacific station. Chef Roger Laws’ American Continental menu is casual, but seriously good. We let our lunchtime waitress talk us into a starter of grilled summer squash — not usually a pulse-quickener — with black pepper-sage risotto cakes and heirloom tomatoes. It was utterly delicious, all the elements combining to make a dish for the vegetarian annals. Afterward, the sandwich of pulled pork, given new purpose in life with a chipotle barbecue sauce, was every-bite gratifying, as was the zesty-not-sweet crisp coleslaw. Tel. (435) 649-9108.

Glitretind

Although I did not stay at the Stein Eriksen Lodge on my recent visit, I made a point of revisiting its charming Glitretind Restaurant, which has long been a Harper favorite. It remains supremely warm and congenial, with panoramic views, superb food and first-class service. Executive Chef Zane Holmquist presents an exceptionally imaginative menu. I particularly enjoyed an appetizer of seared sea scallops served with celery root purée. My delicious main course was the roasted poulet rouge chicken — a slightly smaller breed than the usual — that came with crisp skin and a flavorful molasses jus, plus sides of creamed corn and al dente farm vegetables. During the meal, I had a lively and fascinating discussion with the talented sommelier, Cara Schwindt, who oversees the superb 10,000-bottle cellar. Tel. (435) 645-6455.

Grappa

Sometimes it’s hard to work up enthusiasm for yet another Italian restaurant. But Grappa proved to be a dynamic, multi-level space — extending to the outdoors when weather permits — with delicious food and engaging service. The best starter was a generous portion of perfectly cooked ravioli with an unusual and tasty filling of sweet corn and roasted pork, accented with fresh mint. A main course, veal Milanese, is often a limp, disheartening dish. On this occasion, however, it was wonderfully moist inside its crisp bread coating, and was complemented by a luscious Marsala jus, plus a hearty salad of potatoes, prosciutto and apples. Tel. (435) 645-0636.


Andrew Harper's Favorite Travel Memories of 2011

Travel is often exhilarating and intoxicating, but it also bequeaths a fund of memories that is a lifelong source of solace and delight.

Cruising the Coast of Skye, Scotland

This year, I fulfilled a long-held ambition to sail aboard the Hebridean Princess, a 50-passenger ship that plies the waters between the west coast of Scotland and the romantic islands of the Hebrides. Prior to the cruise, we had driven around the Isle of Skye, becoming entranced by the wild beauty of its mist-draped mountains. But from the sea, we gained a whole new perspective. Along a deserted section of coast, we sailed beneath sheer cliffs populated by tens of thousands of seabirds, peered into ravines cloaked in dark green and russet vegetation (the colors that inspired Scotland’s famous tweeds), and gazed at countless waterfalls, white ribbons tangled on the dark mountainsides, which finally cascaded into the swell and spray of the ocean. It was a landscape that inspired a strange but overwhelming combination of awe and tranquility.

 

Breakfast in Taormina, Sicily 

Early on a sunny summer morning, I sat on the terrace of the Grand Hotel Timeo, sipping a cappuccino, reading a newspaper and listening to the birdsong. A friendly white-jacketed waiter arrived at my elbow with a glass of freshly pressed blood orange juice. He gestured at the view. “She’s thinking today,” he remarked. I was puzzled for a second, and then above the purple bougainvillea, I noticed a thick white ribbon of smoke curling from the summit of Mount Etna.

 

A Visit to Elsa’s Grave, Kenya 

The movie “Born Free” provided much of the impetus behind my first trip to Kenya, beginning a 40-year obsession with wild Africa. For much of Elsa’s story, Joy and George Adamson camped in Meru National Park, on the banks of the Ura River. And it was there that the lioness died at the surprisingly young age of 5. One day, I set off with a guide along a rutted dirt road that twisted through tangled bush. Eventually, we arrived at the tree-lined banks of a muddy river. Taking care not to bump into any of Elsa’s relatives, we wandered over to a low pile of rocks held together with concrete. On one slab, roughly carved with a chisel, it said simply “ELSA JAN 1956 – JAN 1961.” On that hot, still afternoon, it seemed an ineffably peaceful spot.

 

An Epiphany Beside the Pacific, Oregon

During a road trip along the Oregon Coast, we dined one evening at Restaurant Beck, a small, chef-owned dining room overlooking a lovely bay rimmed by weathered cliffs and a slim crescent of driftwood-strewn sand. A spring squall swept across the mouth of the cove, where Pacific rollers exploded against the rocks in spectacular slow motion. Briefly, the electric power failed. While we waited for the lights to come back on, the squall passed and the setting sun emerged from a fog bank, bathing the cove in unearthly light.

 

Alone at Xunantunich, Belize 

Despite its grandeur, the Mayan city of Xunantunich receives an average of around 40 visitors a day. But one morning in April, we had the place to ourselves. The site comprises six plazas surrounded by 26 temples and palaces. The most remarkable structure, however, is a 130-foot stepped pyramid known as El Castillo. We scrambled up the rough path leading to the top. There, rather out of breath, we gazed around in amazement. A panoramic view encompassed the whole site, as well as thickly forested hills extending far into both Belize and Guatemala. We sat for half an hour with our backs against a stone, buffeted by a warm tropical breeze, reveling in the space and solitude.

 

Snorkeling at Kicker Rock, Galápagos Islands 

Kicker Rock is all that remains of a collapsed volcanic cone. There, two tufa spires are separated by a channel about 75 feet wide. Having flopped off the side of the Zodiac, I peered down. About 15 feet beneath my flippers, 50 or 60 Galápagos sharks, exquisitely streamlined and incomparably graceful, cruised above the milky-green abyss. I set off down the channel and was soon joined by a green sea turtle that was clearly unfazed by the strange intruder. I was so entranced, it was not until my guide tapped me on the shoulder that I noticed the three giant spotted eagle rays, each 6 or 7 feet across, swimming beside us. We followed them, within touching distance, for nearly half an a hour.

 

Gorilla Tracking in Rwanda

In early 2011, we had the indelible experience of encountering this 600-pound silverback Mountain Gorilla, part of the Dian Fossey troop, 11,000 feet up in the spectacular mountains 
of Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park.

– A.H.

Win a trip to the Riviera Maya plus a $1,000 shopping spree

Enter the sweepstakes
Enter to win four nights at Zoëtry Paraiso de la Bonita on Mexico’s Riviera Maya plus a $1,000 shopping spree at Taigan.com.

This promotion includes:

  • A four-night stay in an Oceanfront, Terrace King Suite at Zoëtry Paraiso de la Bonita
  • Complimentary green fees at nearby golf courses
  • Private chauffeur for airport transfers
  • Gourmet breakfast, lunch and dinner daily
  • A one-hour Calamaran Sunset Sail
  • Bottle of champagne and fruit basket each day
  • A 20-minute spa treatment and a 20-minute wellness consultation per guest
  • A $1,000 shopping spree on Taigan.com, where you’ll find extraordinary shops and wonderful things. Shop for anything on the site, or browse their collection of resort wear, perfect for your trip to the Riviera Maya!
  • A one-year Andrew Harper Premier Online membership. (Or for existing Andrew Harper members, a complimentary additional year of membership!)

Package subject to availability, which may be limited. Non-transferable, no cash alternative. Deadline to enter is January 27, 2012. No purchase necessary.

Click here to see the complete rules and regulations.

Enter now »

 

Luxury Travel Auctions featuring Andalusia

Luxury Travel Auctions

Barcelo la Bobadilla Loja, Spain

By all accounts, the Moors were heartbroken when they were expelled from Andalusia, and after journeying through Spain’s seductive southwestern province, you will certainly understand why. It is one of the world’s most enchanting destinations, with friendly people, fascinating cities and soul-stirring landscapes.

The Moors (the English word comes from the Spanish moro, or “dark”) were only the last of a long line of conquerors to be smitten by this sunny, fertile, well-watered corner of Europe. However, they gave the region its distinct and vibrant personality. For nearly 800 years, the Moors lavished their affection on the conquered territory, leaving a legacy of majestic architecture and exquisite gardens.

When the Spaniards finally drove them back to North Africa in 1492, Andalusia entered a new golden age with the discovery of the Americas. Columbus sailed from the coastline near Huelva, and the subsequent Spanish conquests of Peru and Mexico funneled treasure to Seville, which became sumptuously wealthy and, by 1570, the third-largest city in Europe.

Today, the timeless charm of cities such as Córdoba, Seville and Granada, as well as the striking pueblos blancos (hilltop “white towns”), is complemented by some of Europe’s most modern infrastructure, including excellent roads and AVE (Alta Velocidad Española) 190 mph high- speed trains from Madrid. This week’s featured auctions represent some of the finest properties of the region.

This week’s Andrew Harper Luxury Auctions:

Barcelo la Bobadilla
Loja, Spain
Three nights in a Suite, Retail Value: $2,250, Starting Bid: $1,350

Palacio de Los Patos
Granada, Spain
Four nights in a Deluxe Room, Retail value: $2,666, Starting bid: $990

Las Casas del Rey de Baeza
Seville, Spain
Four nights in a Deluxe Room, Retail Value: $2,666, Starting bid: $990

Palacio del Bailio
Cordoba, Spain
Four nights in a Deluxe Room, Retail Value: $2,666, Starting bid: $990

Check out all of this week’s featured auctions

Harper Auctions

Please note that the Andrew Harper weekly Auctions will continue to run from Tuesday to Tuesday on AndrewHarper.com. The featured auctions above will close on Tuesday, January 24th at 4 p.m. CST.

Harper Auctions and Private Sales are available only to Andrew Harper members. Please feel free to explore our membership options here: www.AndrewHarper.com/join.

Looking Back on 2011: Highlights from a Year of Travel

View Highlights From a Year of Travel in a larger, interactive map

The new year brings a new search for travel recommendations. The best usually come from someone who has been there, experienced the culture and seen the sights.  This kind of unique travel insight is exactly what you will find on AndrewHarper.com and within the pages of the monthly Hideaway Report.

The range of destinations that Andrew Harper covered last year is quite remarkable.  Here are some selected highlights from 2011:

Africa

Asia/Pacific

Caribbean

Central/South America

Europe

North America

Don’t want to miss out on all of Mr. Harper’s 2012 adventures?  Download the complimentary January 2012 Grand Awards issue of the Hideaway Report and sign up for luxury travel news from Andrew Harper delivered directly to your inbox.


Undiscovered Italy: An Andrew Harper Signature Tour

Andrew Harper Signature Tour: Sicily and the Amalfi Coast

Venice, Florence and Rome may get all the attention, but as Mr. Harper notes in the September 2011 Hideaway Report, Sicily boasts some of the most spectacular archaeological sites in all of Europe. Add in some meals with royalty and a chartered jet to ensure ease of travel, and you have the makings of a truly remarkable Signature Tour.

Limited to just 14 participants, this Andrew Harper Signature Tour (October 1-13) encompasses the most fascinating and beautiful sights in Sicily, as well as a number of palaces and estates normally off-limits to visitors. After digging deep into this enigmatic Mediterranean island, travelers are whisked by chartered jet directly to the Amalfi Coast, one of the world’s most gorgeously sybaritic stretches of cliffs and sea.

Some highlights of this Signature Tour:

  • Chartered jet flight from Catania to Naples
  • Dinner with Conte and Contessa Federico in the 12th-century Arab-Norman tower of their private palace
  • Presentation by Judge Fabio Licata about the role of the Mafia in Sicilian society
  • Lunch and cooking class at the olive oil estate of Gianfranco and Gabriella Becchini
  • Private tour of the Florio Winery’s cellars in Marsala
  • Surprisingly expressive and well-preserved Roman mosaics in the Villa Casale
  • Presentation by journalist Wendy Mazza about the development of Sicilian culture throughout history
  • Private tour and lunch at the Borghese Estate accompanied by Princess Maria Carla Borghese
  • Private tastings at a vineyard and mozzarella farm on the Amalfi Coast
  • Farewell dinner at Michelin-starred La Caravella, former archive of the Duchy of Amalfi

For more information about the Andrew Harper Signature Tour of Sicily and the Amalfi Coast, contact Peter Delgado at the Andrew Harper Travel Office: (800) 375-4685 or (630) 734-4610.