Flor de Caña: The Spirit of Nicaragua

A mojito at Jicaro Island Eco Lodge

A mojito at Jicaro Island Ecolodge

Some of the finest rum in the world comes from Nicaragua, produced by the century-old Flor de Caña distillery. During the turbulent revolutionary years, fearing that the Sandinistas might confiscate its stocks of aged rum, Flor de Caña hid many of its barrels abroad. After the Sandinistas were voted out of office and property rights were restored, Flor de Caña reimported its stocks, now one of the largest reserves of aged rum in the world.

While in Nicaragua, we had the opportunity to sample a range of these excellent rums, both in cocktails and neat:

Macuá: The national cocktail of Nicaragua, this refreshing but potent concoction mixes white rum (ideally 4-year-old Flor de Caña) and fresh guava juice, along with fresh lemon and/or fresh orange juice. Perfect in the heat of the afternoon prior to a siesta.

Mojito: Although not a Nicaraguan cocktail, this mix of mint, lime, sugar, rum and club soda tastes especially good when prepared with 7-year-old Flor de Caña. A fine aperitif.

Flor de Caña 4-Year-Old Extra Lite: This white rum has a fruity aroma and a surprisingly dry flavor. It tastes quite smooth, considering its relative youth.

Flor de Caña 7-Year-Old Grand Reserve: One of the most popular rums in the country, this barrel-aged rum has ample vanilla in the nose, which carries through to the palate along with notes of oak.

Flor de Caña 12-Year-Old Centenario: Bigger, spicier and richer than the 7-year, this rum could almost be mistaken for cognac, with its caramelly aroma and flavors of orange peel and vanilla.

Flor de Caña 18-Year-Old Centenario Gold: This remarkable rum smelled like crème brûlée and vanilla cake. Rich notes of vanilla, oak, caramel and orange unfold on the tongue, with restrained spiciness giving way to a marvelously long, smooth finish.

Read about Mr. Harper’s recent visit to Nicaragua in the June 2012 Hideaway Report, or enjoy this related piece on West Indian rum from the October 2011 Hideaway Report.

Flor de Caña Rum at Jicaro Island Ecolodge

Flor de Caña Rum at Jicaro Island Ecolodge

 

Dining Update for Beaver Creek and Vail

Ritz Carlton Bachelor Gulch

The Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch

Though I’ve long been a fan of Vail, I’ve been migrating to nearby Beaver Creek in recent years, and that held true again this year.

I spent most of my time on the slopes in the eastern part of Beaver Creek, which meant lunch in the village proper. Thanks to the well-situated escalators, this is an easy proposition. Coyote Café is right at the base of the first down escalator leading to the village plaza. A lively and casual Tex-Mex place, it has excellent guacamole made fresh tableside, chili in several incarnations, and a first-class pulled pork sandwich.

Although getting there means a walk in your ski boots from the mountain base, I was very happy to return to the saloon-like Dusty Boot. Although the burgers are terrific, notably the Castle Peak Patty Melt with sharp Cheddar, sautéed onions and Thousand Island dressing on toasted marble rye, I generally order the combo bowl of soup and half a sandwich. I recommend the Turkey Bacon Melt on grilled sourdough, the Reuben on marbled rye or the well-named “Lunch Lady Grilled Cheese” with Cheddar, Swiss and jack with diced tomato on sourdough. The fries and onion rings are also regrettably good.

When I found myself in the western reaches of the Beaver Creek terrain, I headed for The Ritz-Carlton at the lift base in Bachelor Gulch. On a sunny day, it’s tempting to sit outdoors and listen to the live guitar, but my choice remains the atmospheric Buffalo Bar, with its timber walls and wood floors. The menu is full of hearty choices perfect for warming up after a morning in the cold. I’ve liked everything I’ve had here, my default favorite being the superb bison chili, which I can substitute for the soup of the day in the “Bachelor’s Grab” combo with a salad and half a turkey club. The table’s top choice remains the juicy bison burger with white Cheddar, with the flaky-crusted chicken pot pie a close second.

I had long heard good things about Vin48 in Avon, which is at the base of Beaver Creek Mountain, and I finally made it there on this trip. With a sleek but comfortable contemporary setting, this stylish restaurant has delicious food and excellent service. A very satisfying arugula salad featured roasted shiitakes, little chunks of Gorgonzola and sweet potato chips in a smoked tomato vinaigrette. Rich, tender-braised beef cheeks on a bed of pepper jack cheese grits had a nice dollop of guacamole, crunchy tortilla chips and a zingy ancho-citrus sauce. Dessert sounded so good that I succumbed: banana cream pie cheesecake with toasted meringue and chocolate mousse with crème fraiche and a raspberry sauce.

For a casual dinner, I have come to rely on The Blue Moose in Beaver Creek Village for pizza. I am a fan of the small spinach salad, which is impeccably fresh with mushrooms, red onion and tangy blue-cheese dressing. There are also hot and spicy wings as starters, and then there are the pizzas. I was reminded that I had ordered the same thing last year (with no regrets): the chicken ranch with bacon, fresh tomato, red onion, Cheddar, mozzarella and ranch dressing. The Blue Moose welcomes families with a children’s menu, paper tablecloths and crayons for artists of all ages.

Before forays into Vail, I heard good things about places I have recommended previously (read the original post here): Larkspur, The Tavern at the Arrabelle, and the restaurants at the Sonnenalp — Ludwig’s, Bully Ranch and the Swiss Chalet. On this trip, however, I had time for just one Vail dining experience.

Following drinks at the lively, sophisticated bar at Sweet Basil (seek out Sean, who knows his wines and spirits) we returned to a longtime favorite. Russell’s sits right on the Eagle River by the iconic covered bridge and is known for its steaks. The house specialty is steak Diane, a classic grilled filet served with a mild mushroom, shallot and brandy cream sauce that is indeed delicious, but I chose instead the superb lamb chops: tender and flavorful with rich potatoes dauphinoise.

 

From the Travel Office: Wine Tasting in Bordeaux

We arrived in the graceful, relaxed city of Bordeaux at the end of our French tour feeling happy but exhausted from a week of heavy-duty sightseeing. As wine lovers, we were excited to explore the world of Bordeaux, but heading out of the city to the châteaux — many of which require appointments and expect you to purchase a bottle or two — seemed daunting. Fortunately, our hotel, the exquisite Grand Hôtel de Bordeaux & Spa, turned out to be within a two-minute walk of two bars devoted to the glories of the local wine.

Wine connoisseurs should turn right out of the hotel and walk to Max Bordeaux, a sleek tasting bar with uplit tables and a shower of wine glasses raining from the ceiling. Several temperature-controlled cases contain everything from basic Graves to the greatest Premiers Grands Crus Classés.

All these wines can be sampled by the glass in portions ranging from 25 to 75 milliliters, accessed by a card loaded with euro (view the full wine gallery). If you have doubts about which wines to choose, a wall-mounted iPad offers fact sheets and wine critics’ tasting notes about every single wine, in English (the staff is also willing to assist, of course).

We inserted our card into a case, pushed a button, and voilà! We had a €30 taste of 2004 Château Latour in our Riedel glass. Following that remarkable 25 ml, we moved on to tastes of the 2004 Château Margaux, 2006 Château Cheval Blanc and 2006 Château Ausone. For €120, we were able to taste four of the greatest red wines in the world, in succession. It was an amazing opportunity — where else would we have this chance?

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From The Travel Office: Winemaker for a Day

It’s great fun to visit Tuscan wineries and do some tastings, but it’s another experience entirely to blend your own wine with the help of a local oenologist.

If you’re an Andrew Harper member, the Travel Office can – in conjunction with our travel partner Absolute Italy – arrange for you to spend the day in a winery in the Chianti countryside. Working alongside an experienced Tuscan winemaker, combine wines from barriques of Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay and Syrah to create your own unique blend.

Once you’re satisfied with the result, the winery will seal 60 bottles of your wine, marked with a personalized label you helped design. The shipping fees and customs duties are included, as is a gourmet lunch paired with local wines.

Two months later, five cases of your own Tuscan wine will arrive at your doorstep, ready to be shared with friends and family.

Porthos Offer: Stags Leap District Winegrowers Association Appellation Collection 2007

From Porthos, Andrew Harper’s Wine Concierge:

Andrew Harper’s Wine Concierge is proud to partner with the Stags Leap District Winegrowers Association, in the release of its famed Appellation Collection 2007. Comprising 18 outstanding 2007 Cabernet Sauvignons from its member wineries, this unique collection is the only one of its kind from a single region in Napa. Contents include top cuvees from prized vintners such as Shafer, Cliff Lede, both Stags Leaps Cabernets and others (full list below) that are already sold out at the wineries due to critical acclaim for the 2007 vintage, called “best vintage yet” by Wine Spectator. Only 15 collector sets available on a first come, first served basis. RSVP NOW »

EXCLUSIVE TRAVEL OPPORTUNITY

The first 10 respondents to this offer have the option to upgrade their order to include exclusive insider access to a weekend of private tastings at these wineries in spring of 2012! See details below.

Stags Leap Appellation Collection|
RSVP NOW »

Members-only price, $1450, includes complimentary shipping and a leather folio of tasting notes for each wine.

 Includes one bottle each of the following 18 wines. 

Note: These rare bottlings are sold out at the wineries:


  • Baldacci Family Vineyards, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Chimney Rock, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Ganymede Vineyard
Cliff Lede Vineyards, 2007 Poetry
  • Clos Du Val, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Hartwell Vineyards, 2007 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Ilsley Vineyards, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Lindstrom Wines, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Malk Family Vineyards, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Pine Ridge Vineyards, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Regusci Winery, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Robinson Family Vineyards, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Shafer Vineyards, 2007 One Point Five Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Silverado Vineyards, Solo, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Stags Leap Wine Cellars, 2007 Fay Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Stags Leap Winery, 2007 The Leap Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Steltzner Vineyards, 2007 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Taylor Family Vineyards, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Terlato Family Vineyards, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

EXCLUSIVE Inside Napa Weekend: April 27-29, 2012

Enjoy a weekend of insider access to the famed Stags Leap District’s vintners, wineries and private homes. Kick off the weekend on Friday by choosing among four intimate multi-vintner hosted dinners prepared by local celebrated chefs. Spend Saturday at your leisure at our District-wide Open Houses. Join us again Sunday for our neighborhood vintner brunch. This will be no ordinary wine tasting, as you’ll be dining with the owners and winemakers themselves all weekend long.

Total cost: $2065 (Includes two weekend passes and one 18-bottle Stags Leap Appellation Collector Pack. Does not include air travel or accommodations.) Please note, only 10 packages are available. Contact Porthos for wine details. Contact the Andrew Harper Travel Office to arrange travel and accommodations.

 CLICK HERE for weekend details. 

Porthos Offer: Russian River Ancien Pinot Noir 2009

 

From Porthos, Andrew Harper’s Wine Concierge:

“Avid collectors have been clamoring for the new Pinots since Wine Spectator proclaimed 2009 the best vintage in California history, and named a 2009 Pinot its Wine of the Year last week. We are thrilled to introduce Andrew Harper members to our recommendation for 2009 Pinot under $50: Ancien Pinot Noir 2009 (pronounced on-see’-on). This delicious new release has been rated 95 points and is full of vibrant red fruit, including raspberry and fresh strawberry, plus one of the most seductive creamy/caramel oak finishes we’ve ever sampled! The winery has just released this single-vineyard Russian River Pinot, but the scarce, 10-barrrel production means you will miss out unless you RSVP NOW.”

Wine Sampling With Porthos

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Many Andrew Harper members are happily familiar with Porthos. Named after the jovial, drink-loving Musketeer in the famous novel by Alexandre Dumas, this California-based wine concierge service specializes in securing boutique, small-production bottles for its clients. Andrew Harper’s official wine concierge for several years, Porthos has recently broadened its portfolio from trophy bottlings of California Cabernet  such as Duckhorn and Silver Oak to equally compelling discoveries from Chile, Italy and France.

Porthos President Hal Oates originally came to Northern California to work for George Lucas, but wine sampling proved more distracting than marketing the “Star Wars” film franchise. Today, his company’s busy office and warehouse sit roughly equidistant between Napa and Sonoma. Much like Andrew Harper, Porthos bases its recommendations on a rigorous vetting process. The group samples more than 5,000 wines annually, and recommends the highest scoring 1 percent to its clients. We recently had a chance to witness this process firsthand.

Several times a week, Mr. Oates and a half-dozen of his colleagues, professionally known as the “Wine Insiders,” assemble at a long conference table sprinkled with masked bottles, sterile beakers, wine glasses and spit buckets to conduct blind tastings. A bread and cheese tray is present, as well as a stack of scoring forms. The atmosphere is cordial but professional, with occasional banter and long silences devoted to sampling and scoring.

Anywhere from a dozen to two dozen wines are sampled. They include crisp Chardonnays, spicy Malbecs, earthy Pinots and big, plummy Cabernets. Some are wonderful and complex, filling the palate with discrete flavors, and some are tannic, vegetal and generally unpleasant. The former tend to inspire silence, while the latter provoke lighthearted jokes. The scores are then read and averaged, and the wines are revealed. Invariably there are surprises: New entries dazzle; old favorites underwhelm. Last week, a small vineyard from Grass Valley, in the foothills of the Sierras, made a big impression.

This seemingly straightforward process is informed by keen professional insight and decades of experience. Another reason Andrew Harper and Porthos make an excellent fit.

Unexpected Wine Country: Virginia

Keswick Hall, Virginia

 

When most people think of great American wine regions, the West Coast usually tops the list. But one of the world’s loveliest wine countries hides in the East, in Virginia, where little-known vintners are crafting world-class wines. For those unfamiliar with Virginia wines, their uniformly high quality can come as quite a surprise.

It’s easy to get to historic Charlottesville, with nonstop flights from New York, Chicago, Philadelphia and Charlotte, among other cities. From there, it’s a short drive to romantic country resorts such as the Clifton Inn, built by Thomas Jefferson, and Keswick Hall, a Tuscan-style villa on a verdant golf course. Both properties feature memorable restaurants.

A long weekend in Virginia wine country might start with a visit to Monticello, Jefferson’s iconic Palladian-inspired mansion. Here, Jefferson attempted to forge an American wine industry, unfortunately without success. He would be thrilled to see what the surrounding estates now produce.

Barboursville Vineyards dazzles with its Viogniers, Cabernet Francs and Bordeaux-style blends (called “Octagon”). Virginia’s most famous winery is owned by the well-funded Zonin family from Italy, and their investment has paid off. Be sure to have lunch at their renowned Palladio Restaurant and tour the ruins of Governor Barbour’s mansion.

Nearby Horton Vineyards distinguishes itself with an unusual and delicious sparkling Viognier, and fascinating bottlings of Pinotage, Petit Manseng, Tannat and Rkatsiteli. Other wineries of note include the Dave Matthews-owned Blenheim Vineyards, where it’s worthwhile to reserve the $25 private cellar tour (barrel tastings included), and Keswick Vineyards, near the resort. A visit to Castle Hill makes a fun change of pace; it’s devoted to producing artisanal hard ciders.

In between tastings, architecture buffs will not want to miss historic sites such as Montpelier, the idyllic home of James Madison, and the Jefferson-designed University of Virginia, one of the country’s most beautiful campuses.

If time permits, extend the trip with some time in Loudoun County, another Virginia wine center. From a base at the elegant Goodstone Inn & Estate, it’s easy to visit fine wineries such as Chrysalis and Boxwood, and Washington’s Dulles Airport is less than an hour away.

Unexpected Wine Country: Cappadocia, Turkey

 

Viewed from above in a hot air balloon, Turkey’s Cappadocia region looks more like the rugged American Southwest than a wine country. It resembles Bryce Canyon combined with the Grand Canyon, but honeycombed with mysterious, unearthly troglodyte cities.

Nowadays, people visit this dramatically beautiful, thoroughly unique and tangibly ancient landscape for its seemingly alien geologic formations and frescoed rock-cut churches. Many take advantage of the surprisingly luxurious cave hotels, most notably Selçuklu Evi and Yunak Evleri, both located on the outskirts of picturesque Ürgup.

But few realize that Cappadocia boasts a thriving wine industry, and has for at least a millennium or four. Just around the corner from Selçuklu Evi stands one of the region’s best wineries, Turasan. In its modern, friendly tasting room, it’s possible to sample a wide range of local whites and reds. Be sure to taste the crisp, minerally Emir and Narince varietals. Red wine drinkers shouldn’t miss trying some Öküzgözü and Kalecik Karasi.

The Kocabağ Winery near the semi-troglodyte town of Uçhisar also produces satisfyingly dry wines using indigenous Turkish varietals.

Cappadocian wines, despite their charms, rarely find their way abroad. So while planning your itinerary in this most otherworldly and ancient of landscapes, be sure to take time to relax with a unique local vintage.

Unexpected Wine Country: Salta, Argentina

Estancia Colomé

Everyone has heard of Mendoza, Argentina’s most famous wine region, where vineyards give way to dramatic views of the Andes.  But 800 miles to the north, the world’s highest vineyards grow in the Salta Province, site of Argentina’s finest colonial city and one of its oldest wineries.

A 4½-hour drive from the city of Salta, the nine-suite Estancia Colomé is not only a Harper Alliance hotel but also a working biodynamic winery. Some of its pre-phylloxera Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon vines date to 1854. The vineyards here, at about 7,200 feet, present vistas just as spectacular as those in Mendoza.

Those paying a visit to the region should also take time to explore the city of Salta itself. Commonly known as “Salta La Linda” (Salta the Beautiful), the city boasts fine Spanish architecture and an animated central plaza ringed by arcades with delightful small cafés.

The House of Jasmines, set on a 300-acre ranch five minutes from the Salta airport, makes an ideal base for touring the city, as well as for hiking and horseback riding.