Notable October Events

Abu Simbel

October 3: Colorful kites dance in the skies of Seal Beach, California, during the annual Japan America Kite Festival. While children build their own kites and play “catch the tail,” adults can enjoy aerial ballet and sport kite demonstrations.

October 8-11: The Fès Jazz in Riad Festival provides a wonderful excuse for music lovers to visit Morocco’s most evocative and mysterious city. Jazz groups from as far away as Brazil and Ireland perform in the Andalusian-style garden courtyard of an ornate 19th-century Moorish palace.

October 9-10: Openhousenewyork claims to be “America’s largest architecture and design event,” with free building tours and other programs across all five boroughs of New York. All events are free, but some special tours require advance reservations. Those wishing to avoid standing in lines can make a $150 donation.

October 15-17: Three delightful pursuits come together in Virginia’s Hot Air Balloon, Wine & Music Festival, held in the Shenandoah Valley near Millbrook. Hot air balloons launch at both dawn and dusk, ensuring that one can enjoy sampling the local wines and microbrews at a civilized hour.

October 22: Bonfires and huge torches light up Kurama, a small town near Kyoto, during the Kurama-no-Hi-Matsuri (Fire Festival). Nine-foot-tall “watch fires” blaze at strategic points, and men clad in traditional thongs carry huge pine torches — some more than 15 feet — through the streets.

October 22: Twice a year, the sun moves to just the right position to perfectly illuminate the inner sanctum of the temple at Abu Simbel (pictured above). The statues of Ramses, Ra and Amun glow beautifully in the sunlight, but the statue of Ptah, god of darkness, remains cloaked in appropriate shadow.

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L'Heure Bleue Palais, Essaouira, Morocco

L'Heure Bleue Palais, Essaouira, Morocco

Copyright L'Heure Bleue Palais

Most people associate Morocco with mountain ranges and desert rather than its 1,300 miles of magnificent Atlantic coastline. Within the last few years, however, sleepy Essaouira has started to attract growing numbers of travelers looking for a breath of salt air, some excellent seafood and good shopping. The city is famous for its intricate yew wood marquetry and beautiful beaches, and is also a wonderful respite from the crowds and tumult of Marrakech.

The Phoenicians founded Essaouira during the seventh century B.C. as a place to produce indigo dye from the abundant shellfish found along the coast. The strategically located town was occupied by the Portuguese in the 15th century, who fortified its harbor and named it Mogadouro, a variation on the Berber word Amegdul, or “well-protected.” When the Portuguese withdrew in 1541, the town slumbered until a Moroccan sultan turned it into a free port in 1765. It rapidly became one of the most important commercial cities in North Africa. The sultan hired the French architect Théodore Cornut to design and build the city’s signature ramparts; he also reconfigured the existing medina, or traditional Arab town, into a European rectangular layout of streets.

Under French colonial rule, Essaouira (then known as Mogador) became one of the most important fishing ports in Morocco, a role it still plays — most of the fish served in Marrakech are caught here. Essaouira’s growing popularity as a resort town began when Orson Welles shot Othello here, and the world was bewitched by images of Atlantic waves crashing against its crenellated ramparts. The city gained further notoriety when guitarist Jimi Hendrix sojourned here during the ’60s. Slowly but surely, adventurous Europeans started buying up old houses within the city’s walls and turning them into small hotels.

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From the Travel Office: A Frank Assessment of Regent Seven Seas Cruises

Regent Seven Seas Cruises

Copyright Regent Cruises

Putting our faith in the fulsome praise on travel websites and in guidebooks, we decided to give Regent Seven Seas Cruises, a non-Harper-recommended line, another chance. We booked an Alaskan cruise from Seward to Vancouver, hoping our experience might compare favorably with our memories of Seabourn, Silversea and Crystal. Unfortunately, our experience on the Seven Seas Navigator proved, once again, that glowing reviews in the press do not necessarily translate into top-notch service.

Small differences became apparent as soon as we arrived in our suite. Instead of the bottle of Perrier-Jouët we enjoyed on Silversea or the fine Nicolas Feuillatte we received on Seabourn, a bottle of Bouvet Brut from the Loire Valley sat rather unimpressively in the ice bucket.

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Friday Escape: Dunton Hot Springs, Colorado

Dunton Hot Springs, Colorado

From the Harper Collection:

“This meticulously restored mining town resort is situated in a pristine valley not far from Telluride. The 12 original wood cabins have been beautifully renovated and modernized. Each is individually decorated: “Honeymoon” has a painted wedding bed from Rajasthan; “Vertical Log” has a gorgeous Native American robe hanging behind the bed. At the heart of the property, the Saloon is a convivial gathering spot for drinks and outstanding meals. Guests may soak in the 105-degree natural springs, and the property also has a spa, library and gym. Activities include fly-fishing, hiking, biking, climbing and horseback riding in summer, and ice climbing, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing in winter. Families are welcome, and the whole town can be booked for groups.”

Featured Harper Auction: Hotel Gritti Palace, Venice

Hotel Gritti Palace, Venice

Copyright Hotel Gritti Palace

This week’s featured auction is a two-night stay in the legendary Hotel Gritti Palace (a retail value of $1,550) for an opening bid of $905.

From the Harper Collection:

“Legendary hotel housed by a landmark 16th-century palazzo in a perfect location on the Grand Canal with views of Santa Maria della Salute, five minutes’ walk from St. Mark’s Square. The 91 opulent rooms and suites are individually decorated with Murano glass light fixtures, rich fabrics, marble tiles, fine antiques and original gold-trimmed ceilings; some of the marble baths have double sinks and separate showers. Additional patrician furniture and museum-quality paintings enhance the elegant public salons, refined bar and lovely Mediterranean restaurant that flows out to a spellbinding terrace overlooking the Grand Canal.”

Andrew Harper's Favorite Long Island Wineries

Long Island Wineries

Once considered curiosities, Long Island wines now regularly take home prestigious medals from competitions around the world. Stemming from just one visionary vineyard planted in 1973 — Hargrave — there are now dozens on the East End of Long Island, most welcoming visitors with tastings as well as cuisine and entertainment events. Located primarily on the two main east-west roads on the North Fork, Routes 25 (aka Main Road) and 48 (aka Sound Avenue), they are also easy to find, thanks to excellent signage. Many have picnic areas, so if you provision yourself accordingly, you can make a very pleasant day’s excursion! Here are the wineries that we particularly enjoyed, listed from west to east.

 

Shinn Estate Vineyards (2000 Oregon Road).

This fascinating property is the dream-come-true of David Page and Barbara Shinn, creators one of Manhattan’s most beloved restaurants, Home, in Greenwich Village. They bring a variety of elements into their viniculture process — organic fertilizers such as fish and seaweed in the soil, as well as several varieties of oak in their barrels — yielding bottles that are complex and balanced. While we enjoyed much of their portfolio, we were particularly taken with the non-vintage Red, a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, which is a medium-bodied wine with hints of fresh red berries. We also very much liked the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, which is a lush, forward wine with abundant black-fruit appeal. And, this being a part of the world known for its seafood, the crisp and citrusy 2007 “first fruit” Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blend would be perfect with fresh oysters.

Pellegrini Vineyards (23005 Main Road).

Started in 1982 by a graphic designer, this handsome property focuses on red — Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc — and Chardonnay. Our favorite was the 2001 Pellegrini Vineyards Merlot, which was smooth and well-rounded with aromas of black cherry and red plums (and well-priced at $19.99). We also admired the 2006 Pellegrini Vineyards Chardonnay. This was a good year for Chardonnay on Long Island, and this wine shows that with a bright freshness and pleasant elements of pear and toasted almond. We finished our tasting with the excellent Vintner’s Pride Finale Bin 1333, a dessert wine made in the ice wine style. Here, juice is pressed from frozen Gewurztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. The delicious result would go very well indeed with a rich blue cheese or foie gras.

Bedell Cellars (36225 Main Road).

Many years ago, we visited Bedell with some Long Island friends. Then-owner Kip Bedell was pouring wines in the ramshackle barn in the back, and we tried his Merlot. That’s when we realized that great wine could be made on Long Island. Bedell, while still involved, sold the vineyard to a Hollywood mogul, and what was once the old barn is now a very stylish tasting facility. Thankfully, what hasn’t changed is the Merlot! We found the 2006 vintage to have excellent ripe fruit — think dark plums and great complementary tannins. Another favorite was the 2006 Musée, a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. This is a versatile wine that would go well with many meat dishes — including those at summer barbecues.

Wölffer Estate Vineyard (139 Sagg Road, Sagaponack).

This place makes wines in the European tradition. Roman Roth, the winemaker, oversees a program that includes the production of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc, as well as sparkling wines, dessert wines and Rosés. We have long been an admirer of the Wölffer Estate Chardonnay, and the 2005, full-bodied and elegant, is no exception. The 2006 Wölffer Estate Reserve Merlot is also a fine wine with classic characteristics: medium-bodied with notes of plums and cranberries, and possessing a fine acidity that makes it very food-friendly.

Channing Daughters Winery (1927 Scuttlehole Road, Bridgehampton).

This ambitious winery is working with grapes that no one else is using on Long Island. In addition to the more usual Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, whites include Pinot Grigio, Tocai Friulano, Muscat Ottonel and Malvasia. Reds include the expected Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in addition to Dornfelder and Blaufränkisch. We particularly liked the 2007 Scuttlehole Chardonnay, which is fermented in stainless steel, lending it a clean, fresh acidity. We also very much enjoyed the 2007 Rosso Fresco, a red blend with deep red fruit characteristics. The blend here is fascinating: 80% Merlot, 14% Syrah, 2% Blaufränkisch, 2% Cabernet Franc and 2% Dornfelder. Not something you find every day!

Spring Restaurant, Paris

Chef Daniel Rose

Copyright Kai Jünemann

Surprise: The best new restaurant in Paris is run by an American chef, Chicago-born Daniel Rose. The latest version of his contemporary bistro, Spring, opened in July at 6 rue Bailleul, near the old Les Halles market–the original was in the 9th arrondissement–and has been playing to a packed house of 22 covers ever since.

Rose came to Paris to study philosophy and got swept away by a passion for cooking that led to stints in the kitchens of Paul Bocuse and Yannick Alléno. Despite the grandeur of his apprenticeship, Rose says that he wants his restaurant to be “friendly, relaxed, and very personal.”

That translates into cooking that features brilliant but unassuming offerings such as a lunch menu that features bouillon garnished with grilled chicken, pigeon, or other meats; a selection of side dishes like lightly pickled baby eggplant with smoked eel, trout with avocado slices and coriander flowers, and pan-fried New Caledonian shrimp on a bed of baby fennel; and desserts such as lightly sautéed black cherries with fresh almond slivers and a deconstructed lemon tart.

33-1-45-96-05-72, springparis.blogspot.com

The rest of Andrew Harper’s Notebook Column for Forbes Life can be found here.

From the Travel Office: New Nonstop Flights

Sandy Lane, Barbados

Copyright Sandy Lane

In a refreshing change of pace, we’re able to share some good news from the airlines: The inauguration of new nonstop flights. Here is sampling of upcoming routes with the most interest to leisure travelers:

Dallas to Barbados (thrice weekly starting December 16 with American). In Barbados, Mr. Harper recommends Cobblers Cove (a member of the Harper Alliance) and Sandy Lane (pictured above).

St. Louis to Puerto Vallarta (Saturdays starting December 18 with Frontier). In the Puerto Vallarta area, Mr. Harper recommends the Casa de Mita and Las Alamandas (both members of the Alliance), as well as the Four Seasons Punta Mita.

Kansas City to Cabo San Lucas (Saturdays starting December 18 with Frontier). In the Cabo San Lucas area, Mr. Harper recommends Las Ventanas al Paraíso (a member of the Alliance), Esperanza, One & Only Palmilla and Posada la Poza.

San Francisco to Mammoth Lakes (daily starting December 16 with United/Skywest). In the Yosemite area, Mr. Harper recommends the Chateau du Sureau.

Featured Harper Auction: Beijing's Opposite House

Opposite House, Beijing

This week’s featured auction is a three-night stay at Beijing’s remarkable Opposite House (a retail value of $1,540) for a starting bid of $508. Stainless steel swimming pool featured above.

From the Harper Collection:

“Cutting-edge 99-room boutique hotel in the heart of the Sanlitun quarter. Guest studios (including nine suites) feature minimalist interiors with sliding doors, brushed-oak fl oors, sheer curtains, glass walls and electronically operated lights. Spacious spa-style baths beyond glass partitions contain deep oak soaking tubs, twin oak vanities, monsoon showers and heated floors. Lobby area within six-floor atrium is decorated with modern interpretations of Chinese traditions. Six restaurants and bars, including casual Village Café and striking Bei, serve Mediterranean and northern Asian cuisines. Facilities include fully equipped gym and 70-foot stainless steel indoor swimming pool.”

Kwandwe Private Game Reserve: Malaria-free Safaris for Children

cheetah at Kwandwe Private Game Reserve

Most children are fascinated by animals, and an African safari can be a life-changing experience. Opinion is divided, however, as to the minimum age at which such a trip is likely to succeed. Many lodges will not take young children, chiefly on the grounds that they tend to be disruptive on vehicles. And then, of course, there is the problem of malaria.

Although the most effective prophylactic, Malarone, can be dispensed in pediatric doses, children are extremely sensitive to it and many parents are unwilling to risk the possible side effects. One obvious solution is to take a safari in a malaria-free area. Regrettably, most of the major African game parks are in the malarial zone (and many also have insects such as tsetse flies, which can deliver painful bites). In the northern South African parks such as Kruger and adjoining Sabi Sand, malaria is regarded as a seasonal affliction, prevalent chiefly during the rains from November to April. But alas, no one has given the mosquitoes precise dates on which they are obliged to desist.

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