Notable June Events

Matariki Kite Festival, Photo by Hanna Johnston / Getty Images AsiaPac

June 2-3:  Discover the Japan of the past during Takigi-Noh, when professional actors perform traditional Noh dramas by torchlight outside Kyoto’s elegant Heian Shrine. Because these performances involve elaborate costumes, dance and music as well as the spoken word, non-Japanese speakers can easily enjoy them.

June 4-July 4: Auckland, New Zealand, honors its Maori heritage with the Matariki Festival, a celebration of the Maori New Year. Events include haka competitions, Maori cooking classes, kite-flying contests and music and dance performances.

June 5-6: On the morning of June 5, the skies of southwest Colorado fill with hot air balloons for the Telluride Balloon Festival. That evening, the festivities move downtown, where tethered balloons are lit from within, bathing the historic center in colorful light. Sunday, June 6, brings more balloon flights over the town.

June 6: In honor of a third century B.C. Chinese poet who drowned himself to protest a corrupt government, Hong Kong hosts the annual Dragon Boat Festival. One hundred teams of 20 rowers race ornate dragon boats down the Shing Mun River at Sha Tin, cheered on by crowds of locals munching traditional rice dumplings. Dragon dances and fireworks displays round out the festivities.

June 17-19: Stockholm holds its Jazz Festival this year in Skansen on Djurgården, one of the city’s most beautiful islands. Major jazz artists from around the world congregate in this green park dotted with historic buildings, making for one of the world’s most picturesque music festivals.

June 18-19: Rather than braving the insanity of Oktoberfest, help Munich celebrate its 853rd birthday by attending the colorful Stadtgründungsfest. In front of major landmarks such as the neo-Gothic city hall and late-Gothic Church of Our Lady, musicians and folk dancers entertain the spectators who aren’t perusing the numerous food and handicraft stalls. Beer is also reportedly available.

June 19: To see men in kilts throwing heavy objects, there’s no better place to be than the Aberdeen Highland Games, held each year in Hazlehead Park. In addition to the athletic competitions, spectators can enjoy pipe bands and Highland dancing performances.

June 23-26: One of North America’s most charming big cities, Montréal sparkles with music during its Baroque Music Festival. In an apparent attempt to spice things up a bit, this year’s theme is “Sinful Composers and Compositions Inspired by Sins.” A Baroque music parade through Old Montréal is a traditional highlight of the festival, and concerts, ballets and recitals are held in the historic Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours and other atmospheric venues around the city.

Through July 24: Midsummer, when the skies of St. Petersburg never darken beyond twilight, is one of the most popular times to visit Russia’s former imperial capital. This city of opulent palaces and elegant canals celebrates the light with the Stars of the White Nights Festival, centered around the storied Mariinsky Theater. Highlights include Prokofiev, directed by Valery Gergiev; 32 Beethoven sonatas played by Rudolf Buchbinder; and Tchaikovsky’s opera “The Queen of Spades,” with renowned tenor Vladimir Galouzine.

In Praise of Il Pellicano


Hotel Il Pellicano

Courtesy Rizzoli New York

A sequestered manor house-resort in the hills overlooking the coast of the Argentario peninsula, this storied 50-room property has long been a favorite of mine. I was therefore delighted to see a new book, “Hotel Il Pellicano” (Rizzoli, 2011), a social, chronologic and pictorial history of a singular place.

The story is told in three parts through the works of three renowned photographers: John Swope, one of Il Pellicano’s co-founders and a photographer at Life; the legendary Slim Aarons, who chronicled the comings and goings of socialites and celebrities for Town & Country and who visited the resort regularly between 1964 and 1971; and Jurgen Teller, whose work has appeared in publications such as Vogue and W and who has photographed Marc Jacobs ads for many years.

Insightful essays precede each of the sections. Bob Colacello, a contributor to Vanity Fair, writes “A Visitor’s Note,” which sets the context for the rich portfolio of Swope’s black-and-white pictures tracing the development of the resort — from groundbreaking to opening on June 2, 1965, and beyond — by co-founders Michael and Patricia Graham, two expat Brits who adored the setting near the small town of Porto Ercole. They ran it as a club, and as they themselves said, “We do not advertise, as new clients are referred by guests.”

The real heart of the book, which captures the soul of Il Pellicano, is the large central section that begins with a delightful recap of its history and its evolution to what it is today under owner Roberto Scio, who bought the resort in 1979. Written by British journalist Bronwyn Cosgrave, it is full of glittering names and amusing anecdotes (when Louisa Cooley, wife of Dr. Denton Cooley, who performed the first artificial-heart surgery, met the deposed queen of Greece and learned who she was said, “The closest thing I have ever come to a queen is in a pack of cards!”).

Although the people who came to Il Pellicano in this era were worldly and sophisticated, they also had an innocence that no longer exists. You can see this in their faces in the captivating photographs taken by Slim Aarons, whose stated goal was to photograph “attractive people doing attractive things in attractive places.” In this engaging collection of rich color pictures, he fully succeeds in detailing the people and places that made up the ethos of Il Pellicano.

This stands in contrast to the photographs Juergen Teller took at the invitation of the Scios in 2009. Whereas the previous subjects seem blissfully unself-conscious, Teller’s are most definitely aware of the camera’s eye. Perhaps this is a function of Teller’s being a fashion photographer, but I suspect it’s more a result of the 24/7, media-mad, narcissistic, I-Tweet-therefore-I-am, attention-must-be-paid world of today.

In total, this book is not only a wonderful, evocative recapturing of a special place, Il Pellicano; it is also a revealing document of how society has evolved over the past 50 years.

— A.H.

Andrew Harper's Corsica

Andrew Harper consulted with Lexus Magazine to create the following slideshow highlighting the charms of Corsica, which sits in the Meditteranean Sea 105 miles from mainland France and only 56 miles from Italy. Though the island is French, its Italian influence is palpable, as the Corsican language is closer to Italian than French. Mr. Harper recommends a leisurely southern driving itinerary from Bastia, Corsica’s main port city, to the beautiful capital of Ajaccio. Enjoy!

Paco Meralgo — A Great Tapas Bar in Barcelona

© All About Food

Dining in a tapas bar is one of the great experiences of a trip to Spain, but during many visits to this country, I’ve observed how stressful these places can be for foreigners who don’t speak Spanish and don’t know the names of the dishes on display or on the menu. By definition, tapas bars are busy, slightly chaotic places with a quick turnover of tapas (the small-plate delicacies the Spanish enjoy so much as a light meal with a glass of wine), so few take reservations or have staff with the time or language skills to help the uninitiated.

Meeting a friend who lives in Barcelona for a tapas supper recently at Paco Meralgo in the centrally located Eixample neighborhood, I liked it because it was an attractively decorated modern space with oak tables, a long bar and good lighting, but even more for the fact that we’d been able to make a reservation instead of standing around in the hopes of getting a table. To be sure, there was quite a crowd on a Saturday night — it’s one of the best tapas bars in Barcelona — but once we were seated on high stools, the friendly waiter spoke good English, and the menu was in English, too.

Starting off over a nicely chilled bottle of white Rueda, we ordered away, starting with some pan con tomate, the delicious Catalan specialty of toasted bread dressed with olive oil, crushed fresh tomato and a little garlic; an excellent plate of freshly sliced Jamón (ham) Iberico; marinated anchovies; sautéed baby clams; and grilled asparagus. Everything was delicious, so we continued with bite-size chicken croquettes, tortilla Espanola (potato-filled omelette), grilled razor shell clams, mussels, and tuna belly dressed with sesame oil and soy sauce.

The food was excellent, the service was superb, and it was fun to be out on the town with a well-dressed cross-section of Barcelonans. All told, this place is a perfect spot for both tapas connoisseurs and novices, and I look forward to going again the next time I’m in Barcelona, perhaps for lunch, when it also serves a variety of Catalan-style rice dishes such as arroz negro, rice blackened by cuttlefish ink and also garnished with cuttlefish, a delicious classic.

Paco Meralgo, Muntaner 171, Barcelona. Tel. (34) 93-430-90-27.

French Polynesia Aboard the Paul Gauguin

Bora Bora

French Polynesia has long beckoned visitors with sensational scenery, azure seas and a rich local culture. But because its territory encompasses 118 islands in a vast area almost the size of continental Europe, the logistics of exploring this alluring country can be daunting.

The simplest solution is to hop aboard the deluxe Paul Gauguin and cruise for a week or two around the archipelago’s most beautiful islands. Dedicated solely to plying the waters of the South Pacific, the 332-passenger Paul Gauguin can be an excellent value in expensive French Polynesia, especially when it offers reduced rates.

Those travelers able to reserve quickly can realize savings of between $500 and $5,450 per person, as well as free airfare out of Los Angeles. Valid on seven departures in October, November and December, this offer must be booked by May 28.

If a vacation earlier in the year is in order, Paul Gauguin Cruises features savings of between $650 and $1,150 per person on its July 9, August 20 and September 24 departures. Again, airfare from Los Angeles is included. The reduced fares on these seven-night cruises around Tahiti and the other Society Islands are available only to members of Andrew Harper and a select few other travel companies. Valid on cabin categories B through F, these rates must be secured by June 30.

For more information, contact the Andrew Harper Travel Office at (800) 375-4685 or reservations@andrewharper.com.

A Window on the Past: World Travel in 1955

As we’ve continued perusing “New Horizons: The World Guide to Travel,” a guidebook published by Pan American Airways in 1955, we couldn’t help but marvel at some of its descriptions.

Numerous locations detailed in the book have fallen into relative obscurity, and many favorite countries have since been ravaged by wars or revolutions. Below you can find fascinating and sobering descriptions of some former hot spots:

Lebanon (Characteristics): “This is a wonderful little country, which has within its boundaries some of the most magnificent ruins in the world, the famous Cedars of Lebanon, and modern cities and villages which turn the clock back hundreds of years. There are wonderful beaches; within a short distance there are high mountains on which skiing is excellent. It is the biblical ‘Land of Milk and Honey,’ with orange and olive groves, banana plantations, wonderful wild flowers and crystal clear rivers gushing from grottos. It is a fascinating mingling of the old and new, and off the beaten track.”

Bolivia (Where to Go – Sightseeing): “Cochabamba is the resort town to which Bolivians from La Paz and other spots go. It is located in a garden valley, one of the most fertile spots in the country. Indian traffic cops stand on raised platforms at street intersections, wearing bulging trousers and kepis. The old Spanish houses have overhanging tiled eaves.”

Brazil (Where to Go – Sightseeing): “Petropolis is the leading summer resort in Brazil. It is about an hour’s ride from the capital and boasts one of the finest resort hotels in the world, Hotel Quitandinha, decorated by Dorothy Draper. It is set in the middle of fantastic tropical scenery, including orchid-draped trees on the edge of a lake.”

India (Where to Go – Sightseeing): “Kashmir… A tourist’s paradise. The health resorts of Kashmir are among the most picturesque in the world. … Srinigar, the summer capital, like Venice, is built on the waterfront on which float quaint houseboats designed and furnished for comfort and rest. Shikaras (light taxiboats) convey tourists over the lakes and bring vendors of daily necessities, curios and handicrafts, for which Kashmir is famous, to the houseboats. The beautiful terraced gardens laid out in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries by the great Mughals, are another attraction in this playground of the East.”

Pakistan (Night Clubs and Cabarets): “…all the leading hotels have Western-type bar-rooms and cabarets. The floor shows of the Beach Luxury, Metropole, Palace and others are considered to be of high standard.”

Belgian Congo (Where to Go – Sightseeing): “Principal places of interest include Lake Kivu, called the ‘Jewel of Africa,’ where at Usumbura to the south you can see the famous 7-foot-tall Watussi natives and to the north the still-active Nyamalagira volcano…the broad mountain-bordered plains of Albert National Park, where you can see a great variety of wildlife at farther range but in greater numbers than at Kruger. See the famous Ruwenzori Mountain range, called ‘Mountains of the Moon’…”

Union of South Africa (Where to Go – Sightseeing): “Johannesburg is quite naturally called the Golden City. You mustn’t miss a trip down a gold mine – a thrilling experience. … There are many interesting drives in and around the city and there are municipal busses which make ‘Round the Town’ tours. … Pretoria is known as the ‘Flower of the Transvaal.’ In the late spring thousands of jacaranda trees bloom. The avenues of purple flowers make a sight famous throughout the continent.”

Unfriendly Signs and Wonders

I have on occasion availed myself of a comfy robe provided in my suite, and after slipping it on, put my hand into a pocket and found a card notifying me that the robe can be purchased — and that the amount might be added to my account if the robe is absent when I leave.

I empathize with our friends in the hospitality industry: In my travels, I’ve heard some astonishing stories about sticky-fingered guests who’ve apparently felt anything in the room was there for the taking. Clearly the nightly rate, even a four-figure one, doesn’t entitle guests to help themselves. On the other hand, there are times, blessedly rare among the hotels I visit, when efforts at inventory control exceed reasonable expectations of hospitality.

Although I can’t say that I’ve ever checked to see if a fine painting has been secured to the wall, finding one anchored probably wouldn’t offend me. I stayed recently in a small, not inexpensive lodge, however, in which virtually everything portable had a price tag attached — not only the robes, but also the iron ($35), the binoculars ($50), a filtered water bottle in the refrigerator ($15), a small clip-on reading light in a bedside drawer ($25). I was told an unreturned key would cost $35. And my invoice advised that there would be a $25 charge, plus postage, for anything left behind that needed mailing or shipping.

While such charges are not unreasonable, the notes certainly seemed unfriendly. So did the sign cautioning against smoking, incense-burning and “strong perfumes,” along with other instructions about the proper use of this or that device, where to leave raingear and when to observe quiet hours. And while I applaud hotels’ efforts to protect the environment, I don’t like being made to feel guilty for wanting fresh sheets or towels, as this place managed to do.

It had other shortcomings, but none as damaging as its evident unfriendliness. Each “offence” contributed to my growing irritation, and I suppose that before I left, I had become overly critical and grumpy. Needless to say, I left behind the robe, the iron, the binoculars, the water bottle, the reading light and everything else precious to the innkeeper, and I took with me only my belongings — and a greater appreciation for hoteliers who get hospitality right.

A.H.

Book Review: 'In the Spirit of St. Barths' by Pamela Fiori

As  Hideaway Report readers know, St. Barths is one of my favorite islands.  Blessed with dramatic volcanic vistas, several choice beaches, the turquoise waters of the Caribbean  and a prevailing sense of sophisticated style, it is a singular place.

For those who would appreciate a periodic reminder of its pleasures without having to board a plane, I heartily recommend a sumptuous new book, “In the Spirit of St. Barths” (Assouline, 2011). It is the latest in a series of “In the Spirit of …” books that include editions on Capri, Miami Beach, Venice, Aspen and The Hamptons.

The author is Pamela Fiori, who, as editor-in-chief of Travel & Leisure and Town & Country for many years, has come to know the island intimately.  Fiori presents a lively insider’s take on St. Barths by recounting tales of legendary personalities such as Rémy de Haenen, who made the first flight to the island in 1945; Bruno Magras, president of the island since 2009, who recalls events such as the advent of electricity in 1962; and Maya Gurley, chef and owner of the wonderful restaurant that bears her name.

Eden Rock

Chapters that cover the beguiling beaches, the allures of villa living, and the island’s transformation into an international destination are filled with voices in the know. The personalities include David Matthews who, with his family, owns the fabulous Eden Rock hotel (a Harper favorite); Dena Kaye, daughter of beloved entertainer Danny; and Roger Lacour, who with his wife, Brook, started Sibarth, the premier real estate company on the island. They impart a real sense of immediacy and insight.

Then there are the photographs.  Culled from a variety of sources, they capture the vibrant beauty of St. Barths, from its white-sand shores to its rugged green hills and aquamarine waters.  You’ll also find dozens of images of charming shops, breathtaking villas and beautiful people — not just the celebrities, but the real people of the island.

With a concluding directory of hotels, villa rentals, restaurants and shops, “In the Spirit of St. Barths” fully captures the ethos and essence of this very special place.

A.H.

What Makes a Good Airport Hotel

Paris Sheraton

Like most people who travel often, I dread the inevitable night in an airport hotel as much as I do paying my taxes or catching a cold. During the course of many years of travel, it’s never ceased to amaze me that this particular category of lodging is so consistently poor.

To be sure, for hoteliers, these are tough properties to run well, since they’re subjected to an awful lot of wear and tear, and it’s hard to motivate your staff when face contact with new guests usually expires within 24 hours. But when I’m paying for a night in a hotel, any hotel, I’d like it to offer a much better experience than those I’ve had in most airport hotels around the world (I think my all-time worst was in Bangkok, where the room stank of cigarette smoke the moment I opened the door, and when I slipped into an otherwise neatly made bed, my foot recoiled when it came in contact with a previous guest’s sock).

Certain major world airports are more dire than others for immediate-vicinity lodgings, too — the hotel park at New York City’s JFK must rank at the very bottom of the pack, and Heathrow in London doesn’t do much better. Transiting through Paris’ Charles de Gaulle Airport recently on my way from Eastern Europe to Stockholm, I spent a night at the Sheraton Hotel there. I’d booked this property without giving it any thought. The midnight arrival of my flight from Kiev and a 7 a.m. departure to Stockholm precluded going into the city for the night.

The first thing I liked about this hotel is that it’s actually at the airport rather than in some office park a half-hour away via a courtesy shuttle or taxi — with carry-on luggage only, it took less than 15 minutes to get from the plane to the hotel. Then I was pleasantly surprised by the swift, courteous service at the front desk. Things got even better when I got upstairs to my room, which was quiet, attractive and very comfortable. Having given the dodgy-looking in-flight meal a miss, I found myself tucking into a nice dish of pasta with wild mushrooms a half-hour later, and after a hot shower, I hopped into a bed that was so comfortable, I rang the front desk for a wake-up call, lest I robotically turn off my own alarm clock and go back to sleep.

Brief though it was, this was an unexpectedly agreeable evening, and it got me to thinking about what travelers need and want from an airport hotel. Here are a few of my thoughts, and I’d be glad if you added your own.

What Makes a Great Airport Hotel

* Contiguous access to the airport terminal — waiting for a courtesy shuttle or cab is stressful and needlessly time-consuming.

* Free Internet access.

* Easy-to-operate light switches, audio equipment, bath fixtures, air-conditioning/heating and window treatments — having to consult a user’s manual is a nuisance in a place where the average stay is less than 24 hours.

* Reasonably priced 24-hour room service with food that you actually want to eat.

* Round-the-clock breakfast (the Sheraton fell down here).

* Airport baggage trolleys in the hotel lobby.

* Silence — the Paris Sheraton overlooks several busy runways but is as quiet as a tomb.

* A dead-simple alarm clock on the night table, a clock in the bath and another clock in the bedroom. You are staying in an airport hotel because time is of the essence.

* Windows that open; many people who stay in airport hotels are between long-haul flights and crave some fresh air.

* Automated checkout. Your bill should be posted on your TV screen, and a copy should be sent to your home address when you click “OK.”

* Comprehensive amenities. If you’ve forgotten something like a toothbrush, you don’t want to have to go downstairs to a lobby shop in search of it.

* A 24-hour business center so you can print out your boarding pass, or an in-room printer.

* The phone numbers and websites of all airlines serving the adjacent airport in the guest folio.

* A desk with stationery and office sundries.

Heceta Head Lighthouse

Heceta Head Lighthouse, Oregon

Driving north on U.S. 101 along the Oregon Coast, you really can’t miss Heceta Head Lighthouse. You round a bend at about mile marker 179, and there, maybe a half-mile distant, silhouetted against the sky, is the lighthouse, tucked into the steep slope of the rugged headland, 205 feet above a picturesque cove and the Pacific Ocean. It demands to be photographed, and the state of Oregon has obligingly provided pullouts that give you different but equally captivating views.

From the southernmost viewpoint, you can also see a gabled two-story, red-roofed, white frame house with a picket fence around it. A hundred years ago, there were two houses. The head lightkeeper’s home was removed in 1940. The remaining one, once the living quarters of two assistant lightkeepers and their families, is now a bed-and-breakfast, under a concessionaire contract from the U.S. Forest Service.

If you’ve ever been charmed by lighthouses and perhaps romanticized the keeper’s lonely vigil; if you’ve ever tapped your foot, mentally or otherwise, to the jaunty, “I want to marry a lighthouse keeper and live by the side of the sea;” if you can watch for hours the “wrinkled sea” crawl up the shore, you’d be tempted, perhaps, as we were, to spend a night at a lighthouse. And so it was, with some trepidation, that we booked a night in The Mariner’s Room.

The view was everything you’d expect from a location high above the ocean: a crescent beach below, storm-tossed driftwood, powerful Pacific rollers crashing against 100-foot basalt sea stacks and engulfing lesser rocks in spectacular slow-motion sprays. At one time, the assistant keepers’ quarters also may have been thought as grand as the view. Nowadays, the house will have to settle for the much-invoked “charming.” Still, on page after page of a journal displayed in our room, previous guests not only extolled the view, but also praised the room itself and applauded the seven-course breakfast. We felt more than a little ungracious and mean-spirited when we couldn’t respond in kind. Our room was “snug” taken to the extreme; the breakfast was tasty, but the ceremony with which it was served became tedious long before the cook was introduced for congratulations.

Well, view we wanted, and view we got. As a bonus, in the dark and somewhat stormy night, we armed ourselves with the flashlight found in our room and trekked through the mist up to the lighthouse itself. Below us, the luminous surf curled up the beach; offshore, a few lights from passing ships or fishing boats dotted the horizon. As we looked up from the base of the reliable 117-year-old light, we could see its refracted beams, rotating slowly like the spokes of a wheel and radiating far out into the night.

A.H.