All posts for the month May, 2012

Luxury Hotel Auctions: San Ysidro Ranch, The St. Regis Deer Valley and More

Harper Auctions are some of the best in the business; various packages can offer savings of up to 80% of retail value. Click on a hotel photo to view this week’s auction details (all of these auctions close this Tuesday at 4 p.m. CST.)

Merrion Hotel, Dublin

The Merrion Hotel, Dublin

The Merrion Hotel, Dublin

Gracious 142-room hotel (19 suites) occupying four beautifully restored Georgian townhouses in a fashionable downtown district. Guest rooms, furnished with Irish fabrics and antiques, include comfortable armchairs, writing desks and spacious marble baths with twin vanities, large tubs and separate showers. Most rooms have views of the parliament buildings or the hotel’s gardens. Irish art adorns the elegantly appointed Drawing Rooms and No. 23 bar, as well as Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud gastronomic restaurant and revamped Cellar, serving simple Irish cuisine. Attractive garden terrace for summer dining, weather permitting. A health/fitness spa includes a steam room and an infinity pool. Dublin’s prestige address for discerning travelers.

Hotel Fasano, Rio de Janeiro

Hotel Fasano, Rio de Janeiro

 Hotel Fasano, Rio de Janeiro

Boutique hotel offering magnificent ocean views from an ideal location at the Copacabana end of Ipanema Beach. Designer Philippe Starck has employed natural materials — such as an impressive oblong of Amazon wood for the front desk — that provide a warm counterpoint to the rough-hewn granite block walls. Not the usual stark Starck: The property may be contemporary, but it also offers a high level of comfort. The 89 spacious accommodations have hardwood floors, dark wood accents and floor-to-ceiling windows that open onto large private balconies with panoramic views. Generous white marble baths provide separate walk-in showers. The fashionable Fasano al Mare restaurant serves excellent seafood. A spectacular rooftop pool affords unforgettable views; also casual dining, small spa, fitness center and hammam. The Fasano may be a chic “designer” property, but it is also very hospitable and relaxing.

St. Regis Deer Valley, Utah

The St. Regis Deer Valley, Utah

The St. Regis Deer Valley, Utah

New 181-room ski-in/ski-out resort with the main building reached via a 230-foot funicular. The structure is done in handsome lodge style with stone floors, soaring ceilings, wood accents, stone walls, a large open fireplace and towering windows that offer full views onto the ski runs and peaks. The best rooms offer vistas of the slopes, and suites come with the attentive service of a St. Regis butler; also ski butlers and ski valets. The two-level free-form pool has mountainside views, and the 14,000-square-foot Remède spa features treatments to counter the effects of cold, dry air. The J&G Grill is under the direction of star chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten.

Jack's Camp, Botswana

Jack's Camp, Botswana

Jack’s Camp, Botswana

Unique, extremely well-run camp at the edge of the Kalahari’s Makgadikgadi salt pans, an hour by air southeast of Maun. Enormous canvas main tent, filled with a treasure trove of fossils, skulls, spears, books and maps, is lined by a voluptuous canopy of pale raspberry-pink cotton. Sisal mats and Persian carpets cover the dark wooden floor; easy chairs come with kilim-covered cushions. The 10 guest tents share this nostalgic décor but are now very comfortable, with en suite baths, indoor and outdoor showers, and spacious verandas. Delicious food and a good selection of wines. Splendid swimming pool set in a tented pavilion. A nearby water hole ensures wildlife sightings year-round; also walks with the local San Bushmen. A second, dry season camp sits immediately adjacent to the salt flats. For those of a romantic and adventurous spirit, Jack’s Camp cannot be recommended too highly.

San Ysidro Ranch, Santa Barbara

San Ysidro Ranch, Santa Barbara

San Ysidro Ranch, Santa Barbara

Sophisticated 500-acre cottage-style resort in the leafy foothills of Montecito just outside Santa Barbara. A new owner has recently invested $100 million to restore the historic property. Landscaped grounds contain 41 handsome lodgings in 18 peaked-roof cottages, many with generous sitting areas, working fireplaces and private patios, some with hot tubs. Dining venues include the award-winning indoor/outdoor Stonehouse restaurant and a bistro-bar. Amenities include a heated outdoor pool, tennis courts, a fitness studio and in-room massage and spa treatments.

Domaine de Verchant, Montpellier

Domaine de Verchant, Montpellier

Domaine de Verchant, Montpellier

Lavishly renovated 19th-century limestone manor set amid vineyards and century-old trees in Castelnau-le-Lez. Twenty-two individually styled rooms feature contemporary décor, offering a charming contrast with the old house’s traditional architecture, exposed beams and stenciled terra-cotta tile floors. Modern baths, some with whirlpool tubs and separate rainfall showers. All rooms equipped with high-tech fittings such as electrically operated curtains and Bose DVD/CD players. Casual restaurant, opulent spa and beautiful indoor pool, as well as small outdoor pool.

 

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by andrewharpertravelblog on May 31, 2012  •  Permalink
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Posted by andrewharpertravelblog on May 31, 2012

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Andrew Harper's Paris: A Suggested Left Bank Food & Wine Stroll

Cafe de Flore

Cafe de Flore

Excerpted from Andrew Harper’s Paris, a free app for the iPhone and iPad.

Begin your day with a leisurely breakfast at the Café de Flore (#172 boulevard Saint-Germain), and afterwards walk one block west until you reach the large square featuring the 11th-century church of Saint-Germain-des-Pres. One of the most famous churches in Paris, it exhibits a severe Romanesque beauty.

Cross the Boulevard Saint-Germain and head down the Rue Bonaparte to Pierre Hermé’s beautiful pastry shop (# 72). Hermé is one of the country’s great pastry makers, and he’s famous for his superb macarons, which come in a tantalizing variety of flavors and make a wonderful gift.

Continue walking south along the Rue Bonaparte to the beautiful Place Saint-Sulpice. Here you’ll find a wonderful fountain guarded by large stone lions and a church with murals by Delacroix. After a stroll around the square and a peek inside the church, walk west on the Rue du Vieux Colombier until you reach the Rue de Sèvres.

Turn left on the Rue de Sèvres and walk two blocks to La Grande Epicerie, the food hall of the famous Le Bon Marché department store. This is one of the most luxurious food stores in Paris; the locals prefer to shop here instead of at better-known but decidedly touristy Hediard and Fauchon, both on the Right Bank. It’s an excellent place to pick up hard-to-find items for your larder back home such as herbes de Provence or bouquet garni.

Exiting the Grand Epicerie onto the Rue de Sèvres, walk west on the same side of the street until you reach Quatrehomme (#62). This is one of the world’s great cheese shops and a fascinating address for anyone who wants to deepen their knowledge of French cheeses. They are happy to offer tastes and can “cyrovac” cheese for travel.

Further down the Rue de Sèvres, cross the street and walk up the pretty little Rue Mayet until you reach the Rue du Cherche-Midi, one of the Left Bank’s most emblematic streets. There is some wonderful window-shopping here. Turn left and walk four blocks to Le Nemrod, a bustling café that’s very popular with locals. I recommend the croque monsieur (grilled ham-and-cheese sandwich served with salad), one of their excellent salads or a steak tartare.

After lunch, head north on the Rue Saint-Placide to the Rue de Sèvres and cross the street, where the Rue Saint-Placide becomes the Rue du Bac. Continue walking along the Rue du Bac as it passes between the two buildings of the Bon Marché department store.

If you’re curious about the crowds on the left side of the street, you might want to visit La Chapelle de la Médaille Miraculeuse, which is run by a local convent. As the story goes, a pious young woman named Catherine Labouré had a vision of the Virgin on this spot in 1830, and acted on the Virgin’s instructions that a gold medal be cast in her image. The chapel is one of the most-visited pilgrimage sites in France.

Crossing the Rue de Babylone, you might want to stop for an ice cream cone at the excellent Bac à Glaces (#109), and enjoy it in the small public garden just next door. Continue along the Rue du Bac to the Pâtisserie des Rêves (#93). Run by celebrated pastry chef Philippe Conticini, this recently opened shop is one of the prettiest pâtisseries in Paris, and the beautiful pastries are displayed under heavy glass cloche, or bells, on suspension pulleys.

Continue north on the Rue du Bac to Ryst-Dupeyron (#79). Best-known for its vintage Armagnac and Cognac (the family who owns the shop has been Armagnac merchants for four generations), this is an excellent spot to do what Parisians do — pick up a bottle of spirits from your birth year. It also carries a superb assortment of wines.

Next, you may want to turn right on the Rue de Grenelle and visit the quirky Musée Maillol (#59-61), which was founded by Dina Vierny as an homage to the sculptor Aristide Maillol. In addition to Maillol, this intimate gallery also exhibits works by Degas, Rodin, Picasso and Cézanne. If you’re not in a museum-going mood, head to Barthélemy (#51). This tiny shop is sort of an Ali Baba’s cave for cheese-lovers and supplies a number of well-known Left Bank residents.

(Note that on Tuesday and Friday mornings you could also add the open-air market on the Boulevard Raspail to this walk, fitting it in between Pierre Hermé and La Grande Epicerie. The market begins at the corner of the Rue de Sèvres and runs south on the wide median strip in the middle of the Boulevard Raspail.)

Andrew Harper’s Paris, a free app for the iPhone and iPad.

Pierre Hermé

Pierre Hermé © Paris Tourist Office / Stéphanie Rivoal

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by andrewharpertravelblog on May 30, 2012  •  Permalink
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Posted by andrewharpertravelblog on May 30, 2012

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Notable June Events: White Nights Festival, Aberdeen Highland Games & More

White Nights Festival

Kirov Ballet, White Nights Festival © Jeremy Nicholl

Through July 15: Midsummer, when the skies of St. Petersburg never darken beyond twilight, is one of the most popular times to visit Russia’s former imperial capital. This city of opulent palaces and elegant canals celebrates the light with the Stars of the White Nights Festival (pictured above), centered on the storied Mariinsky Theatre. Highlights include “A Midsummer Night’s Dream,” choreographed by George Balanchine to music by Mendelssohn; “The Rite of Spring” by Igor Stravinsky, choreographed by Vaslav Nijinsky; and all of Brahms’ symphonies and concerti, conducted by Valery Gergiev.

June 1-2: On the morning of June 1, the skies of southwest Colorado fill with hot air balloons for the Telluride Balloon Festival. That evening, the festivities move downtown, where tethered balloons are lit from within, bathing the historic center in colorful light. Saturday, June 2, brings more balloon flights over the town.

June 1-3 and 22-24: Hundreds of Australian wineries and specialty food producers gather for the Good Food & Wine Show, held June 1-3 in Melbourne and June 22-24 in Sydney (the exhibition moves to Perth, Adelaide and Brisbane later in the year). Participants can sample the best of Australia’s artisanal products and attend cooking demonstrations and master classes.

June 17: To see men in kilts throwing heavy objects, there’s no better place to be than the Aberdeen Highland Games, held each year in Hazlehead Park. In addition to the athletic competitions, spectators can enjoy pipe bands and Highland dancing performances.

June 21-24: One of North America’s most charming big cities, Montréal sparkles with music during the 10th annual Baroque Music Festival. Capitalizing on the end of the Mayan calendar, this year’s theme is “Apocalypse: Transformations & Revelations.” Highlights include the “Parade of Transformations & Revelations,” an equestrian ballet set to Lully’s “Le Carrousel du Roy” and a grand finale of Telemann’s “The Day of Judgment” held in the historic Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours.

June 24: Each winter solstice, the residents of Cusco, Peru, celebrate Inti Raymi, an ancient Incan festival honoring the rebirth of the sun. Participants in ceremonial dress parade through the city playing traditional Incan instruments, and lead a procession up to the huge fortress of Sacsayhuaman for more ritual dancing and music.

June 29: Wine flows in the streets during the Battala del Vino (Wine Battle) in Haro, in Spain’s famed Rioja region. The century-old “battle” has its origins in a dispute between Haro and neighboring Miranda de Ebro over ownership of some hills. Nowadays, there are no sides or teams; people gather at the hilltop with full wineskins and water guns and joyously squirt anyone they can.


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by andrewharpertravelblog on May 29, 2012  •  Permalink
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Posted by andrewharpertravelblog on May 29, 2012

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This Week's Luxury Travel News: May 25, 2012

 

Strand Hotel, Rangoon

Strand Hotel, Rangoon

As compiled from Andrew Harper’s twitter feed, @HarperTravel. Please note that news about upcoming properties does not constitute endorsement from Andrew Harper.

@barbdelollis: The just-launched “Andrew Harper’s Paris” (free) already has over 4,000 users, company tells me.

Hearing some remarkable travel news from Burma. @OrientExpress cruise & hotels are almost completely booked for the rest of the year. AH.

Slide show of the expanded @PlazaFoodHall via @nytimes http://goo.gl/z4iDo

Congrats to @thelittlenell‘s Sabato Sagariaon his Master Sommelier certification: http://goo.gl/CIWTx

No more figs on a plate. A well-considered San Francisco Dining Update from@WSj: http://ow.ly/b85KO

Remarkable @WeAreWilderness Little Mombo Camp flickr set: http://goo.gl/iQJEb

British Columbia’s lovely @sookeharbourhse on the market for $5.9 million: http://goo.gl/RpDo1

Old Four Seasons Toronto is throwing a fire sale: http://goo.gl/z6pbg

@AUBERGERESORTS takes over Oregon’s Pronghorn Golf Club & Resort: http://ow.ly/b5esj

@BernardusLodge rolling out a freshened up Marinus Restaurant: http://ow.ly/b5ea1

Excellent @Independent background piece on the Berkeley, Connaught & Claridge’s legal case: http://goo.gl/RU3MJ

Riviera Maya: New Andasz coming to the Mayakoba complex: http://goo.gl/XDrCV

Amanresorts’ owner selling land to pay down debt: http://goo.gl/KBazM

Boomer consumers purchase 80% of luxury travel and over 60% have their passports: http://goo.gl/cmXXF

Downtown LA’s Wilshire Grand to be replaced by billion-dollar, 70-story luxury hotel: http://goo.gl/S0kwU

@RelaisChateaux looks to add 3 properties in India (currently manages 6): http://ow.ly/b3ryT

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by andrewharpertravelblog on May 25, 2012  •  Permalink
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Normandy: A Contemplative Memorial Day Itinerary

Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial

Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial

In honor of this year’s Memorial Day, we wanted to highlight one of the world’s most moving battlefield itineraries. The countryside around Normandy’s D-Day beaches still bears the scars of World War II, and the memorials and vast, immaculately maintained cemetery remind us of the sacrifices the soldiers made during the invasion.

The World War II sites of Normandy have such historical significance that it’s easy to forget they are in a particularly beautiful part of France, with elegant château-style hotels and charming half-timbered towns. Normandy’s cuisine uses the local apples, cheeses, seafood and salt meadow-fed lamb to great effect, enhanced with a glass of hard cider or fine calvados (apple brandy).

Together with our travel partner in France, Decouvertes, we’ve put together a Normandy itinerary that combines the most important D-Day monuments with the most entrancing local towns and restaurants.

Day 1: Depart from Paris in the afternoon and head to Normandy, stopping in Rouen to view the cathedral, immortalized in a series of paintings by Monet. Continue to your hotel, the Château La Chenevière, the Château de Sully or the Château d’Audrieu, all of which are within 10-20 minutes of the D-Day beaches.

Day 2: Begin your explorations of Normandy in Caen, one of the first towns to be liberated from the Germans. Here, you have the unique opportunity to meet with a former university professor who was part of the French Resistance. Monsieur André Heintz is now 92 years old, and he participated in the Battle for Caen. Hearing his personal stories from that time is a remarkable experience.

M. Heintz accompanies you to the American Cemetery overlooking Omaha Beach, where 9,386 crosses and Stars of David mark the graves of American casualties. Andrew Harper describes the visitor’s center here as “deeply moving and beautifully conceived.”

Nearby Pointe du Hoc remains virtually unchanged since American Army Rangers scaled its sheer cliffs under withering enemy fire. Pocked with bomb craters, the clifftop still houses numerous German bunkers.

Have lunch at La Marée in Grandcamp-Maisy, overlooking the harbor. Mr. Harper “started an excellent prix-fixe lunch with Utah Beach oysters, followed with grilled scallop ‘tournedos’ wrapped in bacon and served with a light truffle vinaigrette on a bed of delicious, finely diced celery root.”

Enjoy the rest of the afternoon at leisure.

Day 3: At the still-lovely village of Arromanches, 20,000 British personnel created a man-made harbor out of intentionally sunken ships, immense concrete caissons and miles of floating roadway, much of which still stands. One million soldiers passed through this port.

Just outside of Bayeux in La Cambe, the somber German cemetery is fascinating because of how different the layout and design are from those of the American cemetery nearby.

Bayeux itself has a well-preserved old quarter, including an impressive 12th-century cathedral.  After exploring the city, have lunch at Le Lion d’Or, a cozy restaurant serving traditional Norman cuisine. Of course, Bayeux’s most famous attraction, the huge 11th-century tapestry telling the story of the Norman conquest of England, also merits a visit.

Have dinner this evening at L’Ecailler, which presents first-rate Norman seafood overlooking the harbor of Port-en-Bessin.

Day 4: Start with a visit to the Caen Memorial, which is widely regarded as the best World War II exhibit in France. It traces the history of war from 1918 through the present, but the D-Day exhibits are especially engrossing.

Devote the remainder of the morning and early afternoon to tasting local specialties, such as calvados and Pont l’Evêque cheese. The rest of the day is yours to explore on your own, or to relax and enjoy the facilities of your château hotel.

Day 5: Return to Paris, or head west to Mont-Saint-Michel and Brittany.

Mr. Harper has written a number of articles about Normandy, which you can view here:

Discovering the Timeless Spirit of Normandy

Normandy Travel Notes

Norman Cheese & Calvados

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by andrewharpertravelblog on May 24, 2012  •  Permalink
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Posted by andrewharpertravelblog on May 24, 2012

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The Silversea Silver Cloud Then and Now: A Candid Report From the Travel Office

Silversea Silver Cloud

Silversea Silver Cloud

 

In 2007, I had the good fortune to cruise from Rome to Monte Carlo aboard the Silver Cloud, Silversea’s first and smallest vessel. The cruise was extremely enjoyable, and I looked forward to returning for a 2012 Rome to Barcelona itinerary, including exotic-sounding places such as Porto Cervo and Port Mahon. Since I’d heard that the ship underwent a major renovation in the intervening years, I was very curious to see how it turned out. Could it exceed the high expectations set by the 2007 voyage?

On arrival in our Vista Suite in 2007 (left) and 2012 (right):

I happily noted that a flat-screen had replaced the former blocky television, and an iPod dock allowed us to play hundreds of songs without carrying dozens of CDs. Gone was the heavy-duty bed cover, protecting the comforter from our luggage. In its place lay a more inviting cashmere throw.

Gone, too, was the welcoming bottle of Perrier-Jouët Champagne. Instead, out butler arrived with a bottle of Bianca Vigna Prosecco, which is tasty, but not quite in the same league. Of course, in 2007, I had no butler to bring me sparkling wine of any kind; butler service for every suite is a relatively new amenity offered by Silversea.

Our butler, Evelyn, proved to be a delight: personable, professional and thoughtful. She polished our shoes one afternoon without our requesting it, and after a more active shore excursion, she had tea sandwiches waiting in our suite in case we wanted a snack. She was our go-to person for anything we needed in the suite, be it laundry or in-suite dining. All of these services were offered on the 2007 cruise, but I did enjoy getting to know our butler over the course of the week. And because she got to know us, she was able to provide consistently warm and anticipatory service.

The main restaurant in 2007 (left) and 2012 (right):

Service in the ship’s restaurants seemed strained, however, as waiters struggled to deal with substitutions and keep water and wine glasses filled. The 2012 menus in the main restaurant had a confusing layout, and they usually encouraged three-course dining (appetizer, main course, dessert) as opposed to the four-course dining prompted by the 2007 dinner menus.

A few other changes made for minor disappointments. For example, in 2007, we received a daily schedule for the five or six movies running in loops on the television. In 2012, the staff was unable to provide the times, so if we wanted to see one of those films, we had to just hope our timing was right. In 2007, three separate sets of performers provided entertainment during the evenings. In 2012, the same singing group performed different sets of music each night. Candles in the Italian-themed restaurant were replaced with faux tea lights.

The Italian restaurant in 2007 (left) and 2012 (right):

But when it really counted, service aboard the Silver Cloud was commendably organized and quick. When my husband took a tumble off his bike during a shore excursion on the exquisite island of Formentera, Elena, the Silversea representative with us, sprang into action, cleaning the scratches on his hands and applying bandages. When we returned to the ship, Elena escorted us right to the infirmary, where the friendly doctor and nurse sterilized the scratches and rebandaged them. Meanwhile, Sylvia, the shore excursion concierge, arranged for a car to take us to a local emergency room in Ibiza for an examination and wrist X-ray performed by an English-speaking doctor.

Fortunately, it was just a sprain, and back in the Silver Cloud’s infirmary, the doctor gave my husband a brace. Sylvia checked in frequently thereafter, and sent some get-well chocolates to our suite. We felt very impressed by the thoughtful assistance we received, and were very grateful to have Silversea on our side while we dealt with the injury. (Travel insurance will accompany us on all future vacations.)

The Venetian Lounge in 2007 (left) and 2012 (right):

Silver Cloud Venetian Lounge

In the end, despite a few small irritations, the Silversea cruising experience remained delightful. Crew members always did their best to provide exemplary service and ensure that we had as wonderful a journey as possible. I hope we’ll be able to sail with Silversea again sometime soon.

– G.K.

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by andrewharpertravelblog on May 23, 2012  •  Permalink
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Vineet Bhatia: Return of the Native

Vineet Bhatia

Vineet Bhatia

In 2001, Vineet Bhatia elevated the international reputation of Indian cuisine when he became the first Indian chef to win a Michelin star. Three years after this triumph at Zaika, on London’s Kensington High Street, Bhatia opened his own restaurant, Rasoi, in an elegant townhouse just off Sloane Square. There, he was promptly awarded a Michelin star for the second time. With just 14 tables and the ambience of a stylish private home, Rasoi has been one of my favorite dinner venues in the British capital over recent years. Even if you believe you don’t care for Indian food, this is one place you should try. The flavors are complex, but the dishes are light, fresh and delicately spiced. And Bhatia takes considerable pains to pair them with appropriate wines.

A native of Mumbai, Bhatia rose to become chef de cuisine at Kandahar in that city’s Oberoi hotel before departing for London in 1993 to further his career. During the 2008 terrorist attack on Mumbai, The Oberoi was targeted, 30 people died, and Kandahar was gutted. I am pleased to say that the hotel has been fully restored and is animated and thriving once more. During the reconstruction, Oberoi approached its celebrated alumnus and asked him to open a restaurant on the site formerly occupied by Kandahar. Bhatia duly obliged, and Ziya debuted in 2010.

My recent trip to India presented a first opportunity to sample Bhatia’s cuisine in his native land. The new dining room has a “contemporary Indian” interior, with a color scheme of gold and charcoal gray, while a black granite and dark wood floor provides a dramatic counterpoint to the gold-leaf jali (trellis) screens and the burnished gold walls of the display kitchen. In short, it is extremely stylish. Some of Bhatia’s signature dishes were to be found on the menu, including his classic smoked salmon, presented at the table in a smoke-filled cloche, and the grilled chili-garlic lobster, dusted with cocoa powder and served with chocolate samosas. Feeling a tad conservative that evening, however, we opted for lamb chops with a minced-lamb samosa, and black spiced chicken on a bed of saffron upma (semolina). Both were delicious.

Despite the city’s wealth, Mumbai cannot boast a lengthy roster of outstanding restaurants, so Ziya is a very welcome addition. Even if you opt to stay at my favorite Mumbai hotel, The Taj Mahal Palace, you should still take the short taxi ride over to Nariman Point to savor Bhatia’s peerless cuisine, as well as the mesmeric view over the Arabian Sea.

— A.H.

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by andrewharpertravelblog on May 22, 2012  •  Permalink
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South Africa: A Field Report From the Travel Office

South Africa

South Africa: Along the coast between Cape Town and Hermanus.

One of Africa’s most diverse and beautiful countries, South Africa is a top destination for Andrew Harper members year after year. This county’s exciting safaris, historic cities and world-class wineries have not escaped the notice of our travel consultants, and Anne Driscoll recently vacationed there with her husband and daughter.

She experienced much of the best South Africa has to offer, enjoying safaris in malaria-free private game reserves, a drive along the spectacularly scenic Garden Route, the urban charms of Cape Town and a relaxing finish in the heart of wine country.

We sat down to chat with her about her journey and discovered that she loved just about every minute of it. Here are a few particularly memorable moments she shared with us:

— We stayed in a huge Egoli Suite at the Saxon in Johannesburg. The common areas are all outside, and you feel like you’re in some sort of paradise. I wasn’t expecting that.

— At Mateya Safari Lodge, we saw a lot of game. One afternoon, I was in the bathtub and I saw an elephant run by! The art at this lodge is also really amazing.

— We were very impressed by the eight-seat private jet Tswalu Kalahari uses for its transfers — even the hangar was beautiful. Our private guide there was so knowledgeable. We were amazed by what he knew about all the birds and mammals we saw.

— Ellerman House just outside of Cape Town is everything people say — it’s fantastic. Incredible artwork was everywhere we turned. And we had such a beautiful view. Lying in bed, we could look out over the Atlantic.

— Near Hermanus, which impressed me because it’s a real working village, we stayed at Birkenhead House. It’s on a cliff overlooking the sea, and we could just sit on a chaise and whale-watch. Unbelievable! Paved paths go along the coast for 10 miles in either direction from the hotel.

— My daughter and husband hiked up Table Mountain, and because it was clear, they had some incredible views. We had beautiful rooms at One&Only, a lively resort with a huge spa.

— We also stayed at La Residence, which is 45 minutes from the Cape Town airport, and it was an extraordinary finish to our trip. We liked La Residence so much, we didn’t even make it to any wineries. We left just thinking “Wow!”

Sundowners at Tswalu Kalahari

 

 

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by andrewharpertravelblog on May 21, 2012  •  Permalink
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Posted by andrewharpertravelblog on May 21, 2012

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Wonderful Kid-Friendly Hotel Amenities

Ritz-Carlton Lake Tahoe

The Ritz-Carlton, Lake Tahoe

Taking your children on a trip can be one of the most exciting, educational and memorable experiences you can give them. And traveling with kids continues to get easier as more hotels and resorts offer amenities and programs geared specifically toward the little ones.

When you’re planning your summer vacation, consider taking advantage of these charming extras. The Andrew Harper Travel Office can help find family-friendly accommodations wherever you plan to go. Here are a few of our favorite amenities for kids:

Tents: For an additional charge, The Ritz-Carlton, Lake Tahoe (pictured above) can include a small camping tent in the room, replete with bedding, a teddy bear, an electric lantern and a s’more-making kit.

Sundae Surprise: At the newly renovated Four Seasons Chicago, children can get a visit from The Ice Cream Man, a sundae-making expert with a cart bearing top-quality ice cream and an array of tempting toppings.

Treasure Hunt: On check-in at Paris’ Le Bristol, kids receive a plush toy rabbit named Hippolyte. He’s a mischievous bunny, and he’s hidden his garden tools around the hotel. Guided by hotel staff, children seek out the implements, which they can keep as souvenirs.

Kids’ Night Out: While parents have a boring Saturday night by themselves, kids at Acqualina play games and have dinner together in the AcquaMarine Room, followed by a movie shown in the Library.

Beach Bag: The Sanctuary at Kiawah Island presents children with a beach bag containing a stuffed animal, memory book, crayons and sunglasses. If the kids get tired of the beach, the resort offers a range of craft activities and guided nature experiences.

Kids’ Concierge: Working with the entertainers Sharky & George, The Athenaeum’s kids’ concierge can arrange a full London itinerary, including offbeat activities such as filming a Harry Potter-themed documentary, engaging in some “mad” science experiments and seeking treasures around the city.

Children’s Museum: One of the best children’s museums in the country, the Bay Area Discovery Museum, is right next door to Cavallo Point, just across the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco.

37,000 Acres: At Montana’s Resort at Paws Up, the Kids Corps of Discovery organizes excursions to a nearby ghost town, aquatic fun in the Paws Up lake house and a range of traditional ranch activities.

Ponies: Paws Up doesn’t have a monopoly on horseback riding. San Diego’s Grand Del Mar, for example, has its own equestrian center, where kids can enjoy pony rides. The Explorer’s Club, open until 10 p.m. on weekends, offers supervised games and crafts.

Private Villas: On Costa Rica’s secluded Nicoya Peninsula, small groups can take advantage of the Hotel Punta Islita’s private seaview villas. Ideal for families, these two-, three- and four-bedroom villas feature private plunge pools, full kitchens and landscaped gardens.

Helicopters: Set on a pristine forested shoreline in British Columbia, Nimmo Bay affords families the opportunity to board a helicopter for a day of fishing in otherwise inaccessible streams, or hiking in ordinarily out-of-reach mountain meadows.

 

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by andrewharpertravelblog on May 18, 2012  •  Permalink
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Posted by andrewharpertravelblog on May 18, 2012

https://andrewharpertravelblog.wordpress.com/2012/05/18/wonderful-kid-friendly-hotel-amentities/

Whale-Watching in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka Blue Whale Watching

Copyright Sri Lanka Tourist Trade

Sri Lanka is renowned for its ancient Buddhist architecture, manicured tea plantations and golden beaches. But the country has recently acquired another claim to fame: A small patch of sea off its southern coast is now regarded as the best place in the world to watch blue whales.

From a base in the Maldives, marine biologist Charles Anderson had speculated about the migration of large whales from the Arabian Sea to the Bay of Bengal. The strait separating Sri Lanka from the tip of India was, he reckoned, too shallow for the passage of such huge creatures. So in 2007, he traveled to Dondra Head, the southernmost tip of Sri Lanka. There, the continental shelf is narrow, and less than four miles from the shore, the sea is more than a half-mile deep. Climbing to the top of the 176-foot Dondra lighthouse, he promptly had his theory confirmed.

Commercial whale-watching began in 2008, and nowadays, several specialized boats are based at Mirissa, an hour’s drive east of the well-known town of Galle. The whales are routinely sighted in the three-mile stretch of ocean between Mirissa and Dondra Head, the peak times being December-January as they head east and April when they return. (Besides the blue whales, this is also considered to be the best place in the world to spot 65-foot sperm whales.) Both of the Harper-recommended Aman properties in Sri Lanka, Amangalla in Galle and Amanwella in Tangalla, organize whale-watching trips for their guests.

Most people know that blue whales are the world’s largest creatures. But at 100 feet long and weighing up to 200 tons, they are also the biggest creature to have ever lived, more than twice as heavy as the largest dinosaur, Argentinosaurus, which lumbered across what is now Patagonia around 95 million years ago. A few other blue whale facts are worth bearing in mind: It weighs 6,000 pounds at birth; its heart is the size of a family car; its tongue is the length of an elephant; it eats four tons of krill a day; and it can swim at more than 30 miles per hour. During the Moby Dick era, whalers ignored blue whales, as they were simply too big, too powerful and too fast to be tackled until the advent of steel ships and explosive harpoons. Today, there are thought to be around 12,000 cruising the oceans of the world.

The blue whale is also the most beautiful of its kind: smooth, streamlined and a serene slate-blue in color. The only creature that is close to it in size is the similarly elegant 90-foot fin whale. Having already seen humpback and gray whales in Monterey Bay, I first encountered a pod of fin whales in the Antarctic’s Bellingshausen Sea. The difference was immediately apparent: These leviathans were not only twice the size, but they were really fast! When they spouted, the plume of spray rose 30 feet in the air. I remember feeling the water freeze on my face and scraping a thin layer of ice from my cheeks. Looking down, I could see crystals of whale spray beneath my fingernails.

Watching the blue whales in the calm tropical water of Sri Lanka is a very different but equally stirring experience. Although blue whales tend to be solitary, here, on migration, they are commonly found in groups of 10 or 12. Boats can sometimes approach to within 100 feet, which, given the size of the creatures, feels extremely close indeed! Watching the immense animals slide effortlessly beneath the smooth water of the Indian Ocean is an unforgettable wildlife epiphany. If you are fortunate enough to have the opportunity, it is an encounter not to be missed.

-A.H.

Read more about Mr. Harper’s recent visit to Sri Lanka in the May 2012 Hideaway Report.

 

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by andrewharpertravelblog on May 17, 2012  •  Permalink
Posted in WILDLIFE
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Posted by andrewharpertravelblog on May 17, 2012

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