Andrew Harper's Notebook: Il Salviatino, Fiesole

Il Salviatino, Fiesole

Copyright Il Salviatino

Four miles from the center of Florence, Il Salviatino is set among 12 acres of gardens on a winding lane that leads up to the lovely hill town of Fiesole. The 45-room hotel opened in the fall of 2009, and it’s housed in a historic cream-colored villa that underwent a two-year, $81.8 million restoration. During the project, remarkable frescoes were discovered in what is now the Affresco Suite (which also contains an ancient sarcophagus converted into a bathtub), and artisans painstakingly replaced centuries-old mosaics, repaneled the library, and restored an orangery.

The terrace, which overlooks the formal gardens, has a sweeping view of Florence, with Brunelleschi’s great cathedral dome centered amid towers and terra-cotta roofs. Our 750-square-foot Dome View Junior Suite comprised a handsome pair of rooms with high ceilings, dark oak floors, a Poltrona Frau leather sofa, and that remarkable vista.

The hotel’s gastronomic Italian restaurant, Le Serre, occupies a striking contemporary dining room, where we enjoyed an outstanding meal of light, inventive dishes by Tuscan-born, French-trained chef Saverio Sbaragli. You might, for instance, sample the sole with lardo di Colonnata (a type of salume made by curing strips of pig fat with rosemary and other herbs) over pea custard. Later, we discovered a pot of fresh linden-flower tea in our bedroom, a tone-perfect finishing touch.

To read the rest of Andrew Harper’s Notebook column for Forbes Life, please visit here.

Hotel News from Raffles

Copyright Raffles Praslin Seychelles

Raffles, the Singapore-based luxury chain, has begun accepting reservations for stays after Feb. 1, 2011, at the new Raffles Praslin Seychelles on the northeastern tip of the island of Praslin. The resort sits on 74 acres along a stretch of white sand beach with crystalline clear waters ideal for swimming and a variety of water sports, including snorkeling, scuba diving, canoeing and kayaking, sailing and more. It includes 86 villas, each with private plunge pool and outdoor sheltered pavilion. Flanked by the nearby Curieuse island, the shoreline of Anse Takamaka stretches out to the Curieuse Marine National Park, where visitors can trek along mangrove swamps, bird watch or snorkel among coral reefs.

Already accepting guests is Paris’ historic Le Royal Monceau, which closed for refurbishment in 2008 and reopened last week as part of the Raffles portfolio of luxury hotels and resorts. Located at 37 Avenue Hoche in the 8th arrondissement, the hotel includes 149 rooms and suites, five dining/bar options, a spa and fitness center and an indoor swimming pool. Lodgings look over the hotel’s lush Sicilian garden.

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Andrew Harper's Notable November Events

Picasso

Now until January 17: The excellent Seattle Art Museum (SAM) presents Picasso: Masterpieces from the Musée National Picasso, Paris, with 150 works from almost every period of Picasso’s career. TASTE, the museum’s stylish restaurant, makes a fine spot for lunch.

November 4-7: On one of California’s most beautiful stretches of coastline, the Big Sur Food & Wine Festival offers wine tastings, winemaker dinners, cooking classes, beer tastings and even “gentle hiking with wine glass in hand.”

November 7-December 5: Lima, Peru, draws some of the world’s best bullfighting talent for the Señor de los Milagros Bullfight Festival, held each Sunday in November. Dating to 1766, Lima’s historic Plaza de Toros de Acho bullring is one of the oldest in the world.

November 8-27: Once every three years, Córdoba, Spain, hosts the Concurso Nacional de Arte Flamenco (National Flamenco Contest). Top flamenco dancers, singers and musicians compete over three weeks in one of Spain’s most atmospheric cities.

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From the Travel Office: Getting the Best Cruise Price

Silversea Silver Cloud

Silversea Silver Cloud

Some of our favorite small cruise lines have changed their pricing strategies, offering the lowest prices first and slowly raising them as the cruise approaches.

Seabourn, for example, plans to raise the rates on a number of 2011 departures on November 1, and itineraries that are selling well will see another increase on January 1. Silversea (Silver Cloud pictured above) has been experimenting with a similar pricing structure.

Although some cruises will surely see rate reductions nearer to their departure dates, the prices of the most popular itineraries will only increase. If you are considering a cruise in 2011, it would be wise to investigate rates and availability now — your Harper travel consultant can give you a sense of which cruises are most likely to be subject to higher rates.

Notable Northwest Wine Events

Tucker Cellars, Yakima Valley

Tucker Cellars, Yakima Valley

Three notable Northwest wine events occur in November, two in Washington, the nation’s second largest producer behind California, and one in Oregon, which ranks third.

• Nov. 5-7 is Autumn Release Weekend in Walla Walla, about four and a half hours southeast of Seattle in central Washington, or four hours east of Portland, OR. The farming town of 30,000 has in recent years become an appealing and rewarding wine destination with more than 100 wineries and a gratifying number of excellent restaurants. The Walla Walla wine region extends across the state line into Oregon, but most of the wineries are clustered within a few miles of Walla Walla, and most of them open their doors and cellars to taste new releases during the Autumn Release event.

• An hour west of Walla Walla in the Yakima Valley, more than 50 local wineries will debut new releases and present food and wine pairings Nov. 26-28, during the annual Thanksgiving in Wine Country event.

Both regions produce many age-worthy reds, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, and more recently varieties such as Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Sangiovese, among others. Whites include Chardonnay, Semillon, Sauvignon blanc, Gewürztraminer and Viognier.

• South of Portland, Ore., the Willamette Valley is known for its fine Pinot Noir, as well as Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. The wines are the feature of the region’s 28th annual Wine Country Thanksgiving, Nov. 26-28. More than 150 small wineries are spread along scenic back roads west of the busy Interstate 5 corridor, connecting small towns such as Dundee, Newberg, Dayton and Carlton.

John L. Stephens and the Ruins of Tulum

Tulum Ruins

Flickr Copyright joiseyshowaa

“During our short sojourn in Yucatan, we received vague, but, at the same time, reliable intelligence of the existence of numerous and extensive cities, desolate and in ruins …”

So begins John L. Stephens’ classic travel memoir Incidents of Travel in Yucatan, an instant sensation upon its publication in 1843. Stephens’ wry accounts of his party’s remarkable discoveries of now-famous landmarks such as Tulum and Chichen Itza contributed to the book’s immense popularity, but it was his companion Frederick Catherwood’s drawings and watercolors of romantic, vine-strewn ruins that vividly introduced the Mayan Yucatan to the Western imagination. A Catherwood book rests on our coffee table.

And so, with a well-thumbed Dover edition of Incidents of Travel (and an excellent guide and transport arranged by the Rosewood Mayakoba), we recently visited the ruins of Tulum. While not as magnificent as Chichen Itza or as mysterious as the jungle-shrouded Coba, as Stephens notes, it certainly wins on location:

“We were amid the wildest scenery we had yet found in Yucatan; and, besides the deep and exciting interest of the ruins themselves, we had around us what we wanted at all the other places, the magnificence of nature. Clearing away the platform in front, we looked over an immense forest; walking around the moulding of the wall, we looked out upon the boundless ocean…”

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American Safari Cruises in Hawaii

sea turtle

Flickr Copyright Motley Pixel

Staying at a high-end resort in Hawaii is an undeniably wonderful experience, but it can be difficult to delve deeper into this fascinating archipelago without enduring inconvenient transfers and less-than-luxurious accommodations. Longtime Andrew Harper travel partner American Safari Cruises seems to have solved this problem, offering seven- to 10-night Hawaiian itineraries on the 36-passenger Safari Explorer.

Starting in November 2011, the cruises will offer guests the chance to visit ancient Hawaiian ruins, swim with sea turtles, ride a mule down the Kalaupapa Trail on the hard-to-reach island of Moloka’i and hike to hidden waterfalls. Guests will also be able to kayak in ordinarily inaccessible coves and enjoy a traditional Pa’ina (feast) on the beach with locals. Wildlife-viewing opportunities will be plentiful throughout the voyage, most notably in the Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary.

Transfers, meals, alcoholic drinks and almost all activities will be included in the price. Because the Safari Explorer stays mostly on the leeward side of the islands, the ship is sheltered from high winds and rough seas. Naturally we would recommend pairing the cruise with a stay in a Harper-recommended beach hotel such as Kona Village Resort or The Mauna Lani Bay.

Friday Escape: The Great Blue Hole of Belize

Great Blue Hole, Belize

The Great Blue Hole lies near the center of Lighthouse Reef, a small atoll 60 miles east of the Belize mainland. It measures more than 1,000 feet across and 480 feet deep, and was formed by the repeated collapses of a limestone cave system formed during the last ice age.

Mr. Harper recommends several remarkable properties in Belize, including Blancaneaux Lodge, Victoria House and Cayo Espanto Island Resort.

Featured Auction: Villa il Tesoro, Tuscan Coast, Italy

Villa il Tesoro, Tuscan Coast, Italy

Villa il Tesoro

This week’s featured auction is a two-night stay in a Superior Suite at Villa il Tesoro on the Tuscan Coast of Italy (a retail value of $800) for an opening bid of $440. The property rests in the hills of Maremma and features superb Mediterranean views of the island of Elba.

From the Harper Collection:

“Relaxing 19-suite hotel within a 17th-century mansion set on a wine estate; 25 miles southwest of Siena and just 10 miles from the sea. Elegantly decorated accommodations are divided among the main house and three restored outbuildings. Deluxe Suites come with balconies or private gardens; four also feature whirlpool tubs. The fine restaurant, Il Fiore del Tesoro, serves distinguished Tuscan cuisine and local seafood. Mediterranean beaches, golf and Etruscan ruins are all within an easy drive.”

News From Mandarin Oriental

Mandarin Oriental Marrakech

Mandarin Oriental Marrakech

Set on 130 acres of palm and olive groves at the foot of Morocco’s High Atlas Mountains, the 161-room Mandarin Oriental Jnan Rahma, Marrakech is now scheduled to open in the first quarter of 2011, nearly a year later than planned. The traditional riad-styled guestrooms and suites feature large terraces with daybeds and views of the mountains and gardens. Amenities include an expansive spa and a vast Mughal style marble pool.

With numerous World Heritage sites, 12 centuries of history and 2,300 miles of coastline, Morocco has become an emerging travel destination, aided by a favorable U.S. exchange rate and direct flights from New York.

The Marrakech project heads an extensive Mandarin Oriental list of “Hotels Under Development” planned for the next five years in locations such as Abu Dhabi, Beijing, Guangzhou, The Maldives, Taipei, St. Kitts, Grand Cayman, Milan, Moscow and Paris. The Paris development, announced four years ago, includes 138 guestrooms and suites at 247-251 rue Saint Honoré, featuring an expansive inner courtyard with year-round al fresco dining overseen by Michelin-starred chef Thierry Marx. Although well behind its original schedule, Mandarin Oriental has said the hotel will open in mid-2011.

Within the past 12 months, the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group has opened hotels in Macau, Barcelona and Las Vegas, and now operates or has under development about 10,000 guestrooms in 42 hotels in 27 countries.