Notable January Events

Whale Watching, Cabo

Whale Watching in Cabo

January–March: The prime whale-watching season begins in the waters off Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. Blue, gray, sperm and humpback whales migrate to the warm seas around Baja to mate and give birth.

January 3-31: To make space for new collections, designer stores in Europe feature some of the best sales of the year. Milan and Paris are perhaps most famous for their well-priced fashion, but shoppers can find excellent values all over the continent.

January 7: The Coptic Christians in Egypt celebrate Christmas on this date instead of on December 25. You might see belly-dancing Santa figures in Christmas shops, or find handcrafted gifts in the colorful Christmas bazaars. The Coptic pope celebrates the largest Mass in Cairo’s St. Mark’s Cathedral.

January 13-16: Quaff everything from local lagers to imported porters at Bierfest in Santiago, Chile. Ale aficionados can also enjoy live music and an array of beer-friendly culinary delights.

January 14: Evocative Jaipur, India, celebrates the festival of Makar Sankranti by flying thousands of brightly colored kites. Displaying impressive control, participants battle to snap the strings of rivals.

January 17-18: Lima, Peru, pulls out all the stops in honor of the anniversary of its founding. Events include major concerts in the historic Plaza de Armas and brilliant fireworks displays.

January 20: Below the dramatic castle of Santa Maria da Feira, Portugal, bakery-hatted youths process through the streets for the annual Festa das Fogaceiras. This parade of the town’s young people — dressed in white and wearing headgear made of bread — fulfills a 16th-century vow made to St. Sebastian to end an epidemic.

January 20-30: Street performers from all over the world flock to Christchurch, New Zealand, for the World Buskers Festival. Circus performers, comedians, musicians and performance artists put on (mostly) free shows in squares and gardens around the city.

January 22: Flames engulf a small mountain outside Nara, Japan, when dry grasses covering the 342-meter volcano are set ablaze during Wakakusayama Yamayaki. More than 100,000 spectators converge on this small city near Kyoto to view the unique conflagration and accompanying fireworks display.

Video: The Peninsula House, Dominican Republic

 

 

 

 

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From the December Hideaway Report.

“The Peninsula House, a plantation-style guesthouse set on a lush hillside overlooking the coastline of the Samana Peninsula, is my favorite property in the Dominican Republic by a country mile. The six airy suites and striking public areas are distinguished by a museumquality art collection, the life’s work of French proprietor Marie-Claude Thiebault and her American partner, Cary Guy. A small world unto itself, The Peninsula House is the result of catholic but impeccable taste and a thousand intelligent decisions.”

From the Travel Office: Most Popular Bookings

Carlisle Bay, Antigua

Carlisle Bay, Antigua

Several warmer properties arrived on the Harper Travel Office’s most popular bookings last week, including Carlisle Bay and Rosewood Mayakoba:

This week our travel office booked several trips onboard Crystal Cruises.

“Rest of the World” Dream Destinations

Bayon Temple, Angkor Thom

Bayon Temple, Angkor Thom, Copyright Amansara

We asked the Harper travel consultants on our “Rest of the World” team to tell us where they would go if they could choose anywhere in their territory, which includes everywhere except North America and Europe. Because these consultants have worked with exotic destinations for years, we expected some creative answers, and our team did not disappoint. Answers ranged from Laos to Tasmania.

Della: “That’s easy — gorilla trekking in Rwanda! Ever since my high school days and working at the zoo, I have always dreamed of visiting these magnificent creatures in their own habitat before they are erased from the planet. And then Antarctica — the only continent I have not visited yet.”

Laura: “I would travel to Cambodia to see Angkor Wat and stay at Amansara, and then I would travel to Myanmar to take Orient-Express’s Road To Mandalay. Last, I would spend a week at Cocoa Island in the Maldives.”

Linda: “My dream destination is the Australia/Pacific area.  I want to visit Sydney, stay at the Park Hyatt, climb the bridge and attend a performance at the Opera House.  Then I would go to Tasmania to learn about its history and to visit the beautiful beaches and national parks.  Next I would drive the Great Ocean Road from Melbourne to Adelaide before flying to Kangaroo Island for a stay at Southern Ocean Lodge.  I also want to tour the seldom-visited west and far north parts of the country.  A cruise between Broome and Darwin would be fascinating.  I would go to Lizard Island on the Great Barrier Reef to relax and explore different reef areas via snorkeling trips.  And finally, I would fly to a remote island like the Solomon Islands, Guam or New Guinea to explore and snorkel around the World War II artifacts, as well as learn more about the history of that part of the world.”

Ruth: “I’ve heard such glowing remarks about the Aman hotels in Bhutan, Siem Reap and Luang Prabang, and the great lodges in New Zealand. The explora lodge or Awasi in the Atacama Desert of Chile and the Alvear Palace and the tango dancing in Buenos Aires all have me ready to pack my bags and head to the airport.”

Erica: “I would love to go back to the Four Seasons in Chiang Mai, Thailand.  It’s set in the lush green Mae Rim Valley surrounded by rice paddies and beautiful terraces to sit and relax and perhaps watch rice being planted or see the pink buffalo wander by.  The Pool Villas are spectacular, coming with their own dining salas in some cases.  It has the best spa facility for miles around.  The whole atmosphere was just tranquil and serene and somewhere I would love to visit again and stay for a while …”

Thursday Escape: Cocoa Island, Maldives

Cocoa Island, Maldives

From the Harper Collection:

“Understated yet luxurious resort on a small coral island, a 45-minute speedboat ride from Malé. The 33 air-conditioned suites stand on pilings over the sea. Minimal interiors feature teak floors and steeply pitched roofs lined with golden coconut palm matting. Baths come with double vanities, large soaking tubs and separate showers. French doors lead to small wooden porches with tables and sun loungers. The dining room serves outstanding contemporary cuisine, plus a spa menu, and offers an extensive wine list. The excellent spa has private seaview treatment rooms; also library, gym with yoga facilities, infinity swimming pool, water sports, comprehensive dive center, deep-sea fishing and cruises.”

Woody Allen at Café Carlyle

Woody Allen, Café Carlyle

Copyright John Rogers

On a frigid December evening in Manhattan, we strolled in to the warm confines of Café Carlyle to enjoy a Monday night institution, Woody Allen and the Eddy Davis New Orleans Jazz Band. Manager Tony Skrelja escorted us to a corner banquette for dinner, and we had a chance to admire Marcel Vertés’ whimsical murals before settling on a straightforward approach: martini, shrimp cocktail, filet mignon. The dishes were perfectly fine, but on Monday nights you don’t come here for the food.

At around 9, as the band began warming up, we noticed the featured player adjusting his instrument at a small table by the bar. Soon afterward, he quietly took the stage along with the rest of the horn section and a large, beaming banjo player, Eddy Davis (the two have known each other since their nightclub days in the 1960s.) A grand piano and a rhythm section were huddled in the rear. And with very little fanfare, they kicked in to an hour’s worth of utterly joyful, toe-tapping music. The swinging Cole Porter chanson “C’est Magnifique” was a particular delight.

Woody Allen was a studiously self-effacing presence, calling out the tunes very quietly to the band, with Eddy Davis doing most of the grinning and show-running. The evening concluded with an intimate quartet: clarinet, banjo, upright bass and drums. During the closing number, Mr. Allen sang in a light voice while packing up his clarinet and putting on his sweater. Then with a smile and a nod, he left the room.

It was a memorable evening, and anyone who loves New York should try to enjoy it.

General seating, $110 per person; VIP seating, $150 per person; Bar seating, $85 + $25 drink minimum per person. Dinner required. More details can be found here.

From the Travel Office: Most Popular Bookings

Grand Canal, Venice

View of the Grand Canal from Hotel Ca Sagredo, Venice. Flickr Copyright gnuckx

Holiday shopping escapes (and just plain escapes) dominate the Harper Travel Office’s most popular bookings last week:

Our Travel Office also booked several custom itineraries and cruises throughout Europe and the Americas.

The Best Golf in the Dominican Republic

Teeth of the Dog, Casa de Campo

Teeth of the Dog, Copyright Casa de Campo

Golf in the Dominican Republic has received a fair amount of attention lately: the PGA now holds an annual Champions Tour event at Cap Cana every spring and the Golf Channel’s popular “Big Break” series is set in the D.R. this fall. The country’s most famous course is the Pete Dye-designed Teeth of the Dog at Casa de Campo on the southeast coast, which Golf Magazine ranks the best in the Caribbean, and 42nd in the world. Referring to its magnificent coastal location, its designer is said to have claimed, “I created eleven holes, and God created seven.”

Now almost 40 years old, the course was informally named by the men who built it; thousands of pieces of jagged coral had to be cleared with pickaxes before its topsoil could be planted. Doglegs, boulders, railroad ties and pot bunkers create havoc amid spectacular tropical surroundings. Needless to say, advance reservations are recommended for the 6,888-yard, par-72 course; every day it attracts dozens of malingerers hoping to play. Most players prefer afternoon tee times, as mornings are particularly hot and sticky owing to a lack of breeze. If you are playing the morning, however, consider playing the back nine first, as the first four holes play directly into the east.

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’Tis the Season for Chicago

Michigan Avenue

Michigan Avenue at night Copyright Chicago Weekend Fun

Although many people consider visiting Chicago only in the summertime, the city is at its glittering best in the holiday season. An authentic German Christmas Market warms up Daley Plaza in the heart of the Loop. Colorful decorations and lights turn Michigan Avenue into a wonderland, and because the major shops and boutiques are concentrated along this strip, shoppers never have to go more than a few steps to get out of the cold.

Indeed, Chicago boasts the same top designer stores — Tiffany, Cartier, Saks, Bloomingdale’s, Barneys — as New York City. But top Chicago hotels can actually offer availability over December weekends.

At the Four Seasons, rates begin under $400 per night, but the “Suite Holiday Rewards” promotion represents the best value. Rates start at $520 per night for an Executive Suite, including a $50 gift card to The 900 Shops, two cocktails in the Seasons Lounge, a Shopper’s Foot Indulgence spa treatment and complimentary holiday messenger service (to assist with shopping bags). Andrew Harper members receive the usual Alliance amenities as well.

Rates also start under $400 per night at The Peninsula, but families should consider taking advantage of the “Second Room With our Compliments” promotion: Book a Grand Deluxe Room at $595 per night, and the connecting room is free (with a two-night minimum stay). To sweeten the deal, kids under 12 receive 50% off food and beverage purchases.

Notebook: Titilaka, Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge, Tenbosch House

Titilaka, Lake Titicaca, Peru

Titilaka, Lake Titicaca, Peru

Titilaka, Lake Titicaca, Peru

At an altitude of almost 13,000 feet, Lake Titicaca’s luminous blue surface reflects the 20,000-foot peaks of the majestic Cordillera Real. The local people exist much as they have for centuries, many living on artificial islands–and paddling in boats–constructed from totora reeds.

The boxy, contemporary exterior of Titilaka is underwhelming, but stepping inside we instantly realized we had come to a remarkable place. Opened in 2008, the resort has 18 elegant, loftlike suites. Ours was dominated by a large window with a spellbinding view of the lake.

The resort’s open-plan dining room/lounge is a light-washed space with a high timbered ceiling and a sitting area ideal for convivial house cocktail parties. The food has a Mediterranean cast, and we especially enjoyed a delicious pumpkin soup followed by fettuccine with smoked trout.

This is one of those enchanting, end-of-the-world places where you feel you have left the humdrum and inessential far behind.

$455–$725. 866-628-1777, titilaka.com

Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge, Rwanda

Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge, Rwanda

Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge, Rwanda

A chain of mostly dormant volcanoes, the remote, cloud-draped Virunga Mountains are famous as the location of Dian Fossey’s ill-fated gorilla research project. Today the thickly forested slopes conceal around 350 of the huge animals (males often stand more than six feet tall and can weigh over 500 pounds). Sixty-four gorilla-watching permits are issued each day, allowing visitors one magical hour of observation time, often at a distance of less than 20 feet.

There is a haunting view of the sheer peaks from Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge, 15 minutes from park headquarters. The lodge, efficiently managed by Kenya’s Governors’ Camp, comprises five cottages, all constructed of local stone, with spacious interiors and log-burning fireplaces (which also heat the water for a walk-in shower and a soaking tub). The food is simple and well prepared, and staff members are consistently amiable.

Though not conventionally luxurious, Sabyinyo–whose main competitor is the Sanctuary Retreats camp in Uganda–provides a very comfortable and convenient base (a two-hour drive from the airport in Kigali) for one of the world’s most extraordinary wildlife adventures. Expect a full review in the February 2011 Hideaway Report.

$680 per person (rates exclude the daily gorilla-trekking fee of $500). 254-20-273-4000, governorscamp.com

Tenbosch House

Tenbosch House

Tenbosch House, Brussels

Our usual grand hotel in Brussels is the 173-room Hotel Amigo. On a recent visit, however, we decided to search for a hideaway and came across a real gem. The seven-suite Tenbosch House opened in April and is now the city’s number one address for those who prefer smaller hotels and have a taste for modern design.

Located just off the chic Avenue Louise, the hotel was created by combining two 1906 town houses. A soaring white-walled lobby is hung with contemporary art, and the public rooms are furnished with ’50s- and ’60s-vintage Scandinavian furniture.

The guest rooms are uncluttered and light. All come with oak parquet floors and large tiled baths with sleek Duravit fixtures, Belgian linens, and British REN organic toiletries. A wonderful third-floor suite (there is no elevator) offers a sitting room, a dressing room, a bedroom, two baths, and a private balcony. A pavilion in the private garden contains a sauna and a small indoor swimming pool.

$337–$408. 32-2-888-9090, tenboschhouse.com