Maine Wine Discoveries

Cellardoor Winery

Cellardoor Winery, Copyright Bangor Daily News / Bridget Brown

My recent trip to Maine, as detailed in this month’s Hideaway Report, certainly rewarded my search for interesting wines and spirits.

An easy drive from Camden in Lincolnville, Cellardoor Winery (367 Youngtown Road; Tel. (207) 763-4478) rivals some facilities I’ve seen in Napa, with a barn-like tasting room filled with books and wine-related items for sale, and a judicious selection of sandwiches and salads that you can take to the outside deck for the fine views of the vineyards.

Two favorites from my tasting:  The Triology Blanc, an appealing dry white made from a blend of Rhône varietals Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne; and the Petit Verdot, a pleasing red made from Petit Verdot given a bracing boost  from the addition of Mourvèdre.

Farther inland in Union, Sweetgrass Farm Winery & Distillery (347 Carroll Road; Tel. (207) 785-3024) makes fruit-based wines that I found interesting, if not compelling.  But its Back River gin won me over completely, being a finely crafted spirit with just the right notes of juniper and herbs.

En route from Camden down to Kennebunkport, we couldn’t resist the small roadside tasting room of Oyster River Winegrowers (Route 1 at 131 North in Thomaston; Tel. (207) 354-7177).  A new venture, it is waiting for its vineyards to mature but is making wines from purchased grapes in the interim, with very promising results. We went home with a bottle each of the tasty, well-balanced Village Red and the very respectable Merlot, which could stand up to many well-established competitors.

-A.H.

 

A Thousand Dollars a Night

Wall Street Journal

Yesterday’s Wall Street Journal noted that the nightly rate for a standard room at an established luxury property in London and Paris broke the $1,000 barrier some time ago, with New York not far behind. Will $1,000 a night soon become the new normal? I certainly hope not, but for that amount of money, my basic expectation of a hotel is to be supremely impressed.

I understand the concept of overhead; I charge a premium for my editorial services because I don’t accept complimentary stays.  Superior facilities, unique locations and quality service all cost money (as the article notes, the Hotel du Cap-Eden Roc has roughly three employees per room). I have found, however, that when I encounter problems with a hotel that charges 30 to 40 percent more than comparable properties in the area, those problems tend to bother me 30 to 40 percent more than usual. I’m sure I’m not the only one who feels this way.

No doubt some Hideaway Report readers are more comfortable with these pricing altitudes than others, but all of them expect value for their money. The next five years will see exponential growth in new properties asking guests for $1,000 a night just to get past the doorman. Not all will be worth it.

-A.H. 

British Columbia's Kettle Valley Railway Trail

 

Kettle Valley Railway

Kettle Valley Railway

On our recent visit to British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley (see the April 2012 Hideaway Report), we had hoped to spend an afternoon bicycling a section of the scenic Kettle Valley Railway trail that winds more than 100 miles through the backcountry of southern B.C. Our objective was a particularly intriguing seven-mile stretch that winds through precipitous Myra Canyon, crossing 18 wooden trestles, the largest of which is 120 feet high and nearly 500 feet long, and traversing two tunnels.

Because the trail follows the abandoned railroad, the grade is a gentle 2 percent, and at 4,100 feet elevation, it offers distant glimpses of the valley and Okanagan Lake far below. Some years ago, we had enjoyed a pleasant outing on the trail, well before it became a popular attraction and a destination for cyclists from across Canada and the United States.

Much has changed in the interim. A major forest fire damaged or destroyed a dozen of the trestles in 2003. Happily, they were all rebuilt, with safety features added, and the trail reopened in 2008, officially a National Historic Site of Canada, and well worth visiting. We did not, however, on this recent trip keep our appointment with the trail, making instead the difficult choice — albeit an agreeable one — to linger over lunch and add another winery and tasting room to our afternoon itinerary.

The most popular access for pedestrians is at Myra Station, reached from Kelowna, which is at about the midpoint of 80-mile-long Okanagan Lake. From the parking lot, a two-mile hike crosses six trestles and includes one of the tunnels. Rental bikes, shuttles, tours and guides are available. For a map, photos and more information, click here.

-A.H.

 

 

 

April 2012 Hideaway Report: Haute-Savoie, Geneva, Okanagan Valley

April 2012 Hideaway Report Haute Savoie

The April 2012 Hideaway Report focuses on the classic French department of Haute-Savoie. There, Chamonix and the massive snowcapped pyramid of Mont Blanc have been luring foreign travelers since the middle of the 18th century. Nearby Megève is the most sophisticated of the French mountain resorts, and in summer, the lyrical beauty of the surrounding alpine meadows is unforgettable.

Please log in to the member website to view this month’s issue.

Los Angeles Times: Andrew Harper, on His Secret Identity and a Local Resort He Loves

As disguises go, a newsletter over the face isn’t a particularly convincing one (see attached photo). But it’s enough for the man who isn’t Andrew Harper.

Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report has been praising and detailing luxurious, exclusive travel for more than three decades. The report recently released its Grand Awards 2012, a list that picked a newcomer to the Southern California resort world as one of the best grand resorts. (You may download the list with free registration, but subscriptions for print and online editions of the Hideaway Report will set you back $195 to $350 a year.)

It’s written by Andrew Harper, a pseudonym for the real travel writer who doesn’t disclose his identity. Here’s a Q&A, via email, with the always-incognito Harper, who says his anonymity makes him “unsullied by the special treatment lavished on travel writers and editors who announced in advance their visits to hotels and resorts — and who stayed for free. Hardly a guarantee of honest, unbiased information!” (Los Angeles Times travel writers and editors generally travel anonymously, generally don’t announce their visits and pay for their expenses.)

Q: We never, ever know your true identity?

A: To ensure that Hideaway Report would be free from undue influence, I created the pseudonym Andrew Harper, booked all my travel under my real name, paid full fare on everything and refused to take advertising. Those policies stand today. As the company has grown, I have been lucky enough to assemble a very small cadre of trusted writer/editors with deep travel experience and passion to work with me in creating the monthly Hideaway Report newsletter and its expanded online edition, the Andrew Harper Collection, which is the directory of my favorite hotels and resorts, and the growing digital content on our website.

Q: Has your travel reader changed in light of the recession or do high-end travelers remain steadfast throughout the financial wild ride over the past few years?

A: I am delighted to say that the enthusiasm among our readers for travel has not waned and that, in fact, the Andrew Harper Travel Office had its best year ever in 2011. I have to add that it is a pleasure to write for such a devoted group of people who share my curiosity and love of seeing the world and experiencing it at its best.

Read the rest of the interview here. 

 

 

 

Mr. Harper's Suitcase: Packing for Chile & Patagonia

During our Chile sojourn, we traveled almost the full length of the country, with a range of climates from the desert of Atacama to the windswept steppes of Southern Patagonia and the pleasant Mediterranean conditions of the Central Valley and Santiago in between. When embarking on a journey through these varying climates, the solution is to think in terms of layers when packing.

What to pack for Patagonia and the Atacama Desert:

    • A light, quick-dry under layer. I use Patagonia’s No. 2 Capilene in a zip-neck, which is the most breathable of the Capilene line. I bring two of these.
    • Micro-fleece zip-necks, which provide added warmth. I have two by The North Face that have proved most useful.
    • A micro-fleece vest. This is also very useful in many situations and conditions. Additionally, I wear it on airplanes for warmth.
    • Windbreaker/rain-resistant coat. I travel with one made by Lands’ End that has served me well on many trips. It is the other part of the 3-in-1 Stormer Parka, which comes with a separate liner (which I did not bring on this trip because of its bulk).
    • Quick-dry shirts. I especially like those made by Mountain Hardware, the Canyon model being the one I most prefer. I bring two, one in white for being outside in bright sun, as in the desert, and a darker color, such as navy, for other times.
    • Convertible pants, by which I mean those that have zip-off legs so they can be worn as shorts. Mountain Hardware’s Mesa model has served me well on many trips. I bring one pair in khaki and another in a dark gray.

For Santiago:

The Chileans tend to dress on the conservative side, but as we were there in warm weather, I just packed a pair of good lightweight dark wool slacks, two button-down white oxford shirts and two cashmere sweaters, one navy and one black. These covered all the bases for in-town restaurants and for the evenings at the resorts.

Don’t Forget:

Because of the high altitudes and sun in the desert, and the depleted ozone layer in South Patagonia, protect yourself with a broad-brimmed hat – I have one made by Columbia that has been invaluable – sunglasses and ample sunblock.

View our Andrew Harper Pinterest board for product details and other inspiring photos of Chile.

March 2012 Hideaway Report: Chile, Napa and Paris

The March 2012 Hideaway Report explores Chile, a country that has suddenly come of age for sophisticated travel. In places as diverse as the Atacama Desert and the subantarctic steppes of Patagonia, we found resorts that were not only exceptionally comfortable, but also offered solicitous service and fine cuisine (and in one instance, breathtaking contemporary design). We also offer a look at the newly recommended Bardessono in the Napa Valley and L’Hotel in Paris.

Please log in to the member website to view this month’s issue.

Activities in the Turks and Caicos

The Meridian Club, Pine Cay

 Without question, the great draw to the Turks and Caicos — most notably the main island of Provo — is the beaches, white bands of refined toe-warming pleasure. But if you glance offshore, you will spot corresponding white ribbons that indicate the great reefs that make possible the calm, crystalline waters that lap at the shore. This fortuitous combination of reefs and bays offers a wide range of appealing water activities — aside from the elemental pleasure of immersing yourself in the warm embrace of the sea.

Because these waters are relatively calm, they allow for kayaking, which is a great way to explore and — on Grace Bay — to hop over to another resort for lunch. With prevailing breezes almost constant, the conditions are also ideal for sailing, windsurfing and parasailing.

The large reef formations and the clarity of the water also create terrific snorkeling and diving opportunities, which are enhanced by Princess Alexandra National Park, whose boundaries include large sections of marine territory in which all fishing, commercial and sport, is banned. For snorkelers in particular, Provo has two clearly delineated trails, one at Smith’s Reef, the other at Bight Reef — both easily accessible — that take you through a fairyland of reef formations that are very close to the surface and abound in brilliantly colored fish. For divers, the must-see sight is the great wall off Grand Turk Island, covered in coral and home to an amazing array of animals.

Those who enjoy fishing will find several ways to indulge their interest. The shallows around Provo provide excellent bonefishing, while the ocean beyond the reefs has game fish that include marlin, sailfish, mahi-mahi, wahoo and tuna.

Between February and April, those who love whales will have ample chances to see Atlantic humpbacks as they pass Provo on their annual migration from the cold waters of the North Atlantic to their warm-water breeding grounds off the Dominican Republic.

The best way to take part in any of these activities is to check with the concierges at the properties we recommend in the Turks and Caicos: Amanyara, Grace Bay Club and The Veranda on Provo, and The Meridian Club on Pine Cay.

February Hideaway Report: Botswana, South Africa and Turks and Caicos

 

The February 2012 Hideaway Report, a special luxury safari issue, profiles a number of extraordinary new lodges in Botswana and South Africa. Exclusive features include a suggested 14-day Southern Africa itinerary and Andrew Harper’s personal guide on how to choose a safari. We also offer a fresh look at the Turks and Caicos Islands. Please log in to the member website to view the issue.

Wildfires In Patagonia

I have just returned from a multi-week stay in Chile, which included several days near the spectacular Torres del Paine National Park. On December 27, a fire broke out near the southern end of Lake Grey in the heart of the park. Abetted by drought conditions and strong winds, it was not brought under control until early January and destroyed close to 40,000 acres of pristine grasslands and old-growth forests.

Several hotels, including the beautiful new Tierra Patagonia on the eastern end of Lake Sarmiento and the highly respected Salto Chico, were evacuated. The Tierra Patagonia, far from the range of the fire, reopened on January 4. The Salto Chico, which was miraculously spared but did suffer smoke damage to some of its interior, announced recently that it will officially reopen on February 23.

A large section of the eastern part of the park was reopened on January 4, and during my stay, I was able to visit those sections with their breathtaking views of the impressive Torres — the unique granite towers that are the iconic sight of the park — as well as the striking snowcapped Massif. I also went on several beautiful hikes that took us through untouched landscape with its bounty of birdlife (multiple condor sightings) and animals, including the llama-like guanacos, foxes, wild hares and more. Although the heart of the park was closed, I in no way felt that I had been shortchanged.

On January 17, the president of Chile, Sebastian Pinera, announced the opening of the southern part of the park, which in effect means that most of it is now open to visitors (the hiking and mountain trails most severely affected will remain closed for the time being). This means that you can now get to popular spots such as the French Valley and the adjacent so-called British and Italian camping sites, and there will be vehicular access to Lake Grey, with is stunning glacier.

From my experience in the park area just after the fire and the partial reopening, and based on the announcement by President Pinera, I would say that travelers can visit the Torres del Paine area with the certainty of having unforgettable experiences.

-A.H.