Spring Reading List

“There is no frigate like a book / To take us lands away.” — Emily Dickinson

“You can cover a great deal of country in books.” — Andrew Lang

Spring Reading List

Good books, like great travel, can take you places, spark your imagination and enrich your everyday life. We hope this suggested list of titles will inspire your next adventure or simply take you away to a land not yet traveled.

1. The Grand Bazaar Istanbul, by Serdar Gülgün

A comprehensive look at the world’s most vibrant and inspiring marketplace, teeming with stunning images by esteemed photographer Laziz Hamani and accompanied by text from an Istanbul-born Ottoman art collector, Serdar Gülgün.

2. India: A Portrait, by Patrick French

An insightful book chronicling the momentous economic and political transformation of India, from the founding of the nation in 1947 amid the violent integration of princely states and partition from the Muslim north through the economic liberalization of the last 10 years.

3. Paula Scher: MAPS, by Paula Scher

MAPS is a collection of American artist Paula Scher’s remarkable large-scale map paintings and chart drawings of destinations around the world. A perfect book to crown your coffee table and arouse your wanderlust.

4. History in a Glass: Sixty Years of Wine Writing From Gourmet, edited by Ruth Reichl

This wonderful collection assembles 43 articles published in Gourmet magazine between 1941 and 2004. Topics include the state of wineries recovering from Prohibition, James Beard’s legendary gastronomic romp through France and a German Kellermeister skeptical of electricity.

5. The World of Venice, by Jan Morris

Morris’ engaging work captures the soul of this celebrated city in the sea, uncovering legends, mysteries and fascinating historical tidbits around every crooked, cobbled lane. Among other highlights, the description of Sant’ Ariano, the ossuary island, is simply unforgettable.

6. Escape Hotel Stories: Retreat and Refuge in Nature, by Francisca Mattéoli

Assouline publishes thoughtfully designed photography books that are escapist in the best sense. In its latest travel title, “Escape Hotel Stories: Retreat and Refuge in Nature,” Francisca Mattéoli profiles a range of splendidly isolated resorts set in pristine natural environments.  (You can read the full blog post on this book here.)

7. The Tao of Travel: Enlightenments From Lives on the Road, by Paul Theroux

Paul Theroux celebrates 50 years of wandering the globe by collecting the best writing on travel from the books that shaped him, as a reader and a traveler.

Assouline's 'Escape Hotel Stories: Retreat and Refuge in Nature'

 

Copyright Assouline

 

Assouline publishes thoughtfully designed photography books that are escapist in the best sense – we have previously reviewed “American Fashion Travel: Designers on the Go” and “In the Spirit of St. Barths.” In its latest travel title, “Escape Hotel Stories: Retreat and Refuge in Nature,” Francisca Mattéoli profiles a range of splendidly isolated resorts set in pristine natural environments.  Many Harper-recommended hotels are featured, including Banyan Tree Ringha, Sanctuary Camelback Mountain, Borgo Santo Pietro and La Coquillade. And several properties look well worth investigating. Below are some images from the book.

Banyan Tree Ringha, China

Kasbah du Toubkal, Morocco

King Pacific Lodge, British Columbia

Cottars 1920s Safari Camp, Kenya

 

 

Patrick Leigh Fermor


 

For those with means enough and time, summer is the season for both leisurely journeys and languid afternoons spent in the company of a good book.

One of the greatest accounts of an extended journey ever written was penned — literally, he wrote longhand — by Patrick Leigh Fermor, a travel writer relatively unknown in the United States, but revered in his native Britain. “A Time of Gifts” (1977) is the initial part of an intended trilogy, describing the first third of a walk from the Hook of Holland to Istanbul, a distance of about 1,800 miles, from the North Sea coast to the Iron Gates of the Danube on the border between Romania and Serbia. The second installment of the trilogy, “Between the Woods and the Water,” was published in 1986. It seems now that the final third may never appear, as Leigh Fermor died on June 10 at the age of 96. (However, his official biographer, Artemis Cooper, has dropped one or two enticing hints about the existence of some form of manuscript.)

Leigh Fermor’s passing came as a great sadness to many, and the world seems a poorer place without him. But his death concluded a long, remarkable and extraordinarily eventful life. “Ripeness is all” has seldom seemed a more appropriate epitaph. Expelled from school for being, in the words of his headmaster, “a dangerous mixture of sophistication and recklessness,” he set out on his epic walk at the age of 18. It was 1933, and Hitler had just come to power in Germany. Part of the impact of “A Time of Gifts” stems from the reader’s understanding that it describes a continent at the edge of a precipice. Occasionally, there are premonitions of the coming darkness — in Munich, for example, where Leigh Fermor encounters some rowdy Nazis in a beer hall — but for the most part, the book is the work of an omnivorous intellect, enraptured by the culture and history of the Old World. Leigh Fermor travels light, with just a few letters of introduction and copies of Horace’s “Odes” and “The Oxford Book of English Verse” in his rucksack. Borne along by the strength and exuberance of youth, he sleeps in barns and monasteries, as well as in some of Europe’s grandest castles and palaces. His eye for fine detail and talent for unexpected and fascinating digression have seldom been equaled.

Leigh Fermor arrived in Istanbul in 1935, and promptly fell in love with Balasha Cantacuzene, a Romanian aristocrat said to be descended from the 14th-century Byzantine emperor, John VI Kantakouzenos. They lived together blissfully for the next four years, initially sharing an old water mill in Athens with a view of the Saronic Gulf and the island of Paros. This period engendered Leigh Fermor’s lifelong passion for Greece, and the idyll was ended only by the outbreak of the Second World War.

Having enlisted in the British Army, Leigh Fermor was swiftly recruited into the Special Operations Executive, a clandestine unit formed to conduct guerrilla warfare behind enemy lines. Owing to his ability to speak fluent modern Greek, he was parachuted into Crete to organize resistance to the Nazi occupation, and for two years lived in the mountains with the Greek partisans, disguised as the shepherd Michelis. It was during this period that he successfully abducted the German commander, General Kreipe, an escapade later made into the movie “Ill Met by Moonlight,” in which Leigh Fermor is played by Dirk Bogarde.

After the war, Leigh Fermor divided his time among the smarter salons of London, a house in Greece, and extended periods of travel. His first book, “The Traveller’s Tree (1950), was an account of a journey through the Caribbean islands, and he subsequently wrote a novel about the West Indies, “The Violins of Saint-Jacques (1953). But for the next 60 years, Greece was the spiritual center of his existence. There, he lived with his wife of 35 years, Joan Monsell, in a stone house surrounded by an olive grove near Kardamyli, a remote port on the coast of the Mani, the central peninsula of the Peloponnese. He built the house himself over a number of years, while simultaneously becoming a leading scholar on the history of the Byzantine Empire and writing his most notable books, among them “A Time to Keep Silence,” “Roumeli” and “Mani,” the latter a wonderful account of travels by mule and on foot around the wilder parts of his adopted home.

Leigh Fermor’s love for Greece and the Greeks knew no bounds. He adamantly refused to refer to Istanbul as anything other than Constantinople, and his hero was, naturally, poet and philhellene Lord Byron. (In imitation of Byron, he swam across the mouth of the Bosphorus, but unlike the poet, he encountered a Soviet submarine in the middle and nearly drowned!) Those fortunate enough to be invited to dinner at his home in Kardamyli encountered a man of astonishing charm and a consummate storyteller. He also had an ability to sing Greek folk songs, glass of red wine in hand, that inevitably reduced even the least susceptible members of his audience to tears.

Patrick Leigh Fermor was a great man and a great writer— and we could all wish to live so well and so long. In his memory, I intend to reread his two best books, “Mani” and “A Time of Gifts,” and can think of no more delightful summer companions.

-A.H.

American Fashion Travel: Designers on the Go

© Assouline

“American Fashion Travel: Designers on the Go,” a colorful new photography book from Assouline, features the collective travel wisdom of dozens of contemporary fashion designers, from Tory Burch to Vera Wang.

The format is simple: Members of the Council of Fashion Designers of America were invited to respond to a general travel questionnaire as well as to submit photographs, sketches and souvenirs. Replies ranged from brief answers and a snapshot (Tommy Hilfiger) to whimsical, scribbled photomontages (Betsey Johnson).

The result is a diverting, lighthearted scrapbook that manages to be both escapist and informative. A helpful concluding index lists all the museums, hotels, shopping streets, stores, markets and restaurants mentioned by the designers.

A few of my favorite responses:

My favorite market: “Turkish Bazaar, Istanbul.” — Tommy Hilfiger

My favorite beach: “Pink Sands, in Harbour Island, Bahamas.” — Diane von Furstenberg

The best snow: “Corviglia, St. Moritz, Switzerland. The views from the gondola ride are breathtaking.” — Tory Burch

The world’s best shopping street: “Avenue Montaigne in Paris, Sloane Street and Bond Street in London, and Aoyama in Tokyo.” — Vera Wang

The best hotel or place to stay: “COMO Shambhala in Bali, Indonesia.” — Donna Karan

Jet lag remedy: “Two paths: sun, water, Bikram yoga, Japanese fare. [Or] : denial, liquor, espresso, loud music.” — Shane Baum

The best museum: “The doll museum in Paris. Incredibly creepy.” — Lisa Mayock

Always in my carry-on luggage: “A bikini and a cocktail dress.” — Nanette Lepore

I’m always looking for the perfect: “Old hotel bar.” — Sophie Buhai

Plane, train, boat, motorcycle, or car?

 

“Plane, although I HATE to fly. I don’t like ‘bumps,’ so I travel ‘liquidly.’ ” — Betsey Johnson

 

“Love, love, love a train. Very Doctor Zhivago.” — John Bartlett

—A.H.

 

Some Thoughts on Hotel Room Magazines

Like most people, I’m constantly behind on my subscription magazines, so I often fill the side pocket of my computer bag with a few titles before heading for the airport. However, this doesn’t prevent me from being curious about the magazines I find when I check into a new hotel room.

They are usually quickly dispensed with, since most of the print deemed worthy of a captive hotel audience is invariably intended to sell something. I have no interest in looking at endless pages of expensive wristwatches, or reading glowing reviews of restaurants that also happen to be advertisers, so I’m usually able to make some progress with the reading I’ve brought along.

Every once in a while, though, I come across a winner, which is what happened recently in Istanbul. In addition to the usual dubious publications on the coffee table, I came across a copy of Cornucopia, a beautifully produced magazine with the very accurate subtitle, “Turkey for Connoisseurs.” Recent topics included turn-of-the-century mansions built by the oil barons of Baku in Azerbeijan, an intriguing travel story about a remote corner of Turkey’s Black Sea coast and a great piece on the British orientalist painter John Frederick Lewis. There was also a restaurant column that had an immediately honest ring to it, because it was actually critical.

Cornucopia made me think of the sadly long gone magazine Connoisseur, which offered a similarly diverse and erudite read. It not only left me with a desire to explore parts of Turkey I’ve not yet visited, but got me thinking about what a pleasure it is to find a ‘real’ magazine in a hotel room, rather than a catalog of fancy jewelry or real estate. Travelers are curious people by definition, which is why I think a good quality local read is one of the nicest amenities a hotel can offer you.

Feel free to suggest other quality hotel magazines in the comments section.

-A.H.

In Praise of Il Pellicano


Hotel Il Pellicano

Courtesy Rizzoli New York

A sequestered manor house-resort in the hills overlooking the coast of the Argentario peninsula, this storied 50-room property has long been a favorite of mine. I was therefore delighted to see a new book, “Hotel Il Pellicano” (Rizzoli, 2011), a social, chronologic and pictorial history of a singular place.

The story is told in three parts through the works of three renowned photographers: John Swope, one of Il Pellicano’s co-founders and a photographer at Life; the legendary Slim Aarons, who chronicled the comings and goings of socialites and celebrities for Town & Country and who visited the resort regularly between 1964 and 1971; and Jurgen Teller, whose work has appeared in publications such as Vogue and W and who has photographed Marc Jacobs ads for many years.

Insightful essays precede each of the sections. Bob Colacello, a contributor to Vanity Fair, writes “A Visitor’s Note,” which sets the context for the rich portfolio of Swope’s black-and-white pictures tracing the development of the resort — from groundbreaking to opening on June 2, 1965, and beyond — by co-founders Michael and Patricia Graham, two expat Brits who adored the setting near the small town of Porto Ercole. They ran it as a club, and as they themselves said, “We do not advertise, as new clients are referred by guests.”

The real heart of the book, which captures the soul of Il Pellicano, is the large central section that begins with a delightful recap of its history and its evolution to what it is today under owner Roberto Scio, who bought the resort in 1979. Written by British journalist Bronwyn Cosgrave, it is full of glittering names and amusing anecdotes (when Louisa Cooley, wife of Dr. Denton Cooley, who performed the first artificial-heart surgery, met the deposed queen of Greece and learned who she was said, “The closest thing I have ever come to a queen is in a pack of cards!”).

Although the people who came to Il Pellicano in this era were worldly and sophisticated, they also had an innocence that no longer exists. You can see this in their faces in the captivating photographs taken by Slim Aarons, whose stated goal was to photograph “attractive people doing attractive things in attractive places.” In this engaging collection of rich color pictures, he fully succeeds in detailing the people and places that made up the ethos of Il Pellicano.

This stands in contrast to the photographs Juergen Teller took at the invitation of the Scios in 2009. Whereas the previous subjects seem blissfully unself-conscious, Teller’s are most definitely aware of the camera’s eye. Perhaps this is a function of Teller’s being a fashion photographer, but I suspect it’s more a result of the 24/7, media-mad, narcissistic, I-Tweet-therefore-I-am, attention-must-be-paid world of today.

In total, this book is not only a wonderful, evocative recapturing of a special place, Il Pellicano; it is also a revealing document of how society has evolved over the past 50 years.

— A.H.

A Window on the Past: World Travel in 1955

As we’ve continued perusing “New Horizons: The World Guide to Travel,” a guidebook published by Pan American Airways in 1955, we couldn’t help but marvel at some of its descriptions.

Numerous locations detailed in the book have fallen into relative obscurity, and many favorite countries have since been ravaged by wars or revolutions. Below you can find fascinating and sobering descriptions of some former hot spots:

Lebanon (Characteristics): “This is a wonderful little country, which has within its boundaries some of the most magnificent ruins in the world, the famous Cedars of Lebanon, and modern cities and villages which turn the clock back hundreds of years. There are wonderful beaches; within a short distance there are high mountains on which skiing is excellent. It is the biblical ‘Land of Milk and Honey,’ with orange and olive groves, banana plantations, wonderful wild flowers and crystal clear rivers gushing from grottos. It is a fascinating mingling of the old and new, and off the beaten track.”

Bolivia (Where to Go – Sightseeing): “Cochabamba is the resort town to which Bolivians from La Paz and other spots go. It is located in a garden valley, one of the most fertile spots in the country. Indian traffic cops stand on raised platforms at street intersections, wearing bulging trousers and kepis. The old Spanish houses have overhanging tiled eaves.”

Brazil (Where to Go – Sightseeing): “Petropolis is the leading summer resort in Brazil. It is about an hour’s ride from the capital and boasts one of the finest resort hotels in the world, Hotel Quitandinha, decorated by Dorothy Draper. It is set in the middle of fantastic tropical scenery, including orchid-draped trees on the edge of a lake.”

India (Where to Go – Sightseeing): “Kashmir… A tourist’s paradise. The health resorts of Kashmir are among the most picturesque in the world. … Srinigar, the summer capital, like Venice, is built on the waterfront on which float quaint houseboats designed and furnished for comfort and rest. Shikaras (light taxiboats) convey tourists over the lakes and bring vendors of daily necessities, curios and handicrafts, for which Kashmir is famous, to the houseboats. The beautiful terraced gardens laid out in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries by the great Mughals, are another attraction in this playground of the East.”

Pakistan (Night Clubs and Cabarets): “…all the leading hotels have Western-type bar-rooms and cabarets. The floor shows of the Beach Luxury, Metropole, Palace and others are considered to be of high standard.”

Belgian Congo (Where to Go – Sightseeing): “Principal places of interest include Lake Kivu, called the ‘Jewel of Africa,’ where at Usumbura to the south you can see the famous 7-foot-tall Watussi natives and to the north the still-active Nyamalagira volcano…the broad mountain-bordered plains of Albert National Park, where you can see a great variety of wildlife at farther range but in greater numbers than at Kruger. See the famous Ruwenzori Mountain range, called ‘Mountains of the Moon’…”

Union of South Africa (Where to Go – Sightseeing): “Johannesburg is quite naturally called the Golden City. You mustn’t miss a trip down a gold mine – a thrilling experience. … There are many interesting drives in and around the city and there are municipal busses which make ‘Round the Town’ tours. … Pretoria is known as the ‘Flower of the Transvaal.’ In the late spring thousands of jacaranda trees bloom. The avenues of purple flowers make a sight famous throughout the continent.”

Book Review: 'In the Spirit of St. Barths' by Pamela Fiori

As  Hideaway Report readers know, St. Barths is one of my favorite islands.  Blessed with dramatic volcanic vistas, several choice beaches, the turquoise waters of the Caribbean  and a prevailing sense of sophisticated style, it is a singular place.

For those who would appreciate a periodic reminder of its pleasures without having to board a plane, I heartily recommend a sumptuous new book, “In the Spirit of St. Barths” (Assouline, 2011). It is the latest in a series of “In the Spirit of …” books that include editions on Capri, Miami Beach, Venice, Aspen and The Hamptons.

The author is Pamela Fiori, who, as editor-in-chief of Travel & Leisure and Town & Country for many years, has come to know the island intimately.  Fiori presents a lively insider’s take on St. Barths by recounting tales of legendary personalities such as Rémy de Haenen, who made the first flight to the island in 1945; Bruno Magras, president of the island since 2009, who recalls events such as the advent of electricity in 1962; and Maya Gurley, chef and owner of the wonderful restaurant that bears her name.

Eden Rock

Chapters that cover the beguiling beaches, the allures of villa living, and the island’s transformation into an international destination are filled with voices in the know. The personalities include David Matthews who, with his family, owns the fabulous Eden Rock hotel (a Harper favorite); Dena Kaye, daughter of beloved entertainer Danny; and Roger Lacour, who with his wife, Brook, started Sibarth, the premier real estate company on the island. They impart a real sense of immediacy and insight.

Then there are the photographs.  Culled from a variety of sources, they capture the vibrant beauty of St. Barths, from its white-sand shores to its rugged green hills and aquamarine waters.  You’ll also find dozens of images of charming shops, breathtaking villas and beautiful people — not just the celebrities, but the real people of the island.

With a concluding directory of hotels, villa rentals, restaurants and shops, “In the Spirit of St. Barths” fully captures the ethos and essence of this very special place.

A.H.

Masseria: The Italian Farmhouses of Puglia

© Masseria: The Italian Farmhouses of Puglia, Rizzoli New York, 2011.

Released this month by Rizzoli, “Masseria: The Italian Farmhouses of Puglia” is a striking book of photographs and essays dedicated to the ancient domestic buildings of southern Italy. The masserie originally served  as farmhouses and way stations along the Appian Way, the famed military and commercial lifeline from Brindisi to Rome. Stark but captivating constructions of medieval stucco and calcified stone, many of them in recent years have been converted to private residences and boutique hotels. While they differ greatly in style, all share a profound sense of space, light and serenity.

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Book Review: "Paris Was Ours"

The 19th-century American writer Thomas Gold Appleton famously said, “Good Americans, when they die, go to Paris,” and this is certainly the premise behind “Paris Was Ours,”an anthology of essays about the city by 32 writers, compiled by editor Penelope Rowlands. It struck me as the perfect read for a recent trip to Paris, so I happily cracked it open during the transatlantic flight and discovered a curiously mixed assortment of very personal vignettes about living in the City of Light.

Suffice it to say that a large number of the writers marveled at the ability of French women to tie a scarf, praised the city’s bakeries, and insisted that despite the thorniness of the locals, the city is a marvelous place to live. No one can argue with the other common themes in these essays — that Paris is a beautiful and romantic city, that the French live very well indeed (fantastic food, long vacations, good schools, excellent medical care), and that it’s a challenge to learn and master French codes of politesse, many of which are very different from those of the English-speaking world.

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