Wine Sampling With Porthos

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Many Andrew Harper members are happily familiar with Porthos. Named after the jovial, drink-loving Musketeer in the famous novel by Alexandre Dumas, this California-based wine concierge service specializes in securing boutique, small-production bottles for its clients. Andrew Harper’s official wine concierge for several years, Porthos has recently broadened its portfolio from trophy bottlings of California Cabernet  such as Duckhorn and Silver Oak to equally compelling discoveries from Chile, Italy and France.

Porthos President Hal Oates originally came to Northern California to work for George Lucas, but wine sampling proved more distracting than marketing the “Star Wars” film franchise. Today, his company’s busy office and warehouse sit roughly equidistant between Napa and Sonoma. Much like Andrew Harper, Porthos bases its recommendations on a rigorous vetting process. The group samples more than 5,000 wines annually, and recommends the highest scoring 1 percent to its clients. We recently had a chance to witness this process firsthand.

Several times a week, Mr. Oates and a half-dozen of his colleagues, professionally known as the “Wine Insiders,” assemble at a long conference table sprinkled with masked bottles, sterile beakers, wine glasses and spit buckets to conduct blind tastings. A bread and cheese tray is present, as well as a stack of scoring forms. The atmosphere is cordial but professional, with occasional banter and long silences devoted to sampling and scoring.

Anywhere from a dozen to two dozen wines are sampled. They include crisp Chardonnays, spicy Malbecs, earthy Pinots and big, plummy Cabernets. Some are wonderful and complex, filling the palate with discrete flavors, and some are tannic, vegetal and generally unpleasant. The former tend to inspire silence, while the latter provoke lighthearted jokes. The scores are then read and averaged, and the wines are revealed. Invariably there are surprises: New entries dazzle; old favorites underwhelm. Last week, a small vineyard from Grass Valley, in the foothills of the Sierras, made a big impression.

This seemingly straightforward process is informed by keen professional insight and decades of experience. Another reason Andrew Harper and Porthos make an excellent fit.

Dressing Down

Twist Restaurant, Las Vegas

 

Alas, my schooldays are far behind me, most of what I learned in science class has vanished without leaving so much as a shadow on the Harper cortex. But one fundamental law has remained with me: “For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction.”

Thirty years ago, many resorts in the Caribbean still required men to wear neckties for dinner. On one particularly humid evening at the Jamaica Inn in Ocho Rios, half-strangled and about to expire inside my navy blazer, I remember thinking, “I’m just not going to do this anymore.”

But then Newton’s Third Law kicked in, dress codes disappeared, and today, even at New York’s legendarily starchy “21” Club, ties are now “preferred” rather than mandatory for dinner.

This relaxation of the social norms causes me no distress. What does drive me crazy, however, is the trend taken to extremes. Several months ago I was enjoying a fine meal at Pierre Gagnaire’s restaurant in Las Vegas. Halfway through the guinea fowl, the sound of an arriving party made me glance up. I could hardly believe my eyes: eight people were sitting down at an adjacent table, all of whom appeared to have arrived directly from the gymnasium.

It was not just that their attire looked ridiculous; it was the manifest lack of respect for the chef and his staff that struck me as unforgivable. When a master of his craft has labored for hours on your behalf, surely the least you can do is put on a clean shirt and a jacket!

I once asked a dear friend in Rome about the concept of bella figura, to which he replied, “We Italians think that it is important to dress for others, as well as ourselves.” Quite. An appropriate degree of formality is no bad thing. Call me stuffy if you will, but I reckon that dress codes are due for a revival and that a reaction is long overdue.

Notable October Events: Berlin Festival of Lights, Chablis Wine Festival and More

 

Berlin Cathedral during the Festival of Lights by T. Schumann

October 6: The Navratri Festival in India culminates with Dussehra, marking the end of the battle between Rama and Ravana. In the evening, archers shoot flaming arrows at fireworks-filled effigies of Ravana and his evil brothers, which ignite and explode in a most spectacular fashion.

October 8: Santa Barbara celebrates its maritime heritage with the annual Harbor and Seafood Festival. Festival goers can feast on lobster, crab, barbequed tuna and other fresh, local seafood, and enjoy activities such as free cooking demonstrations and boat rides.

October 9: Siena has the most famous Palio in Italy, but the hamlet of Balconevisi boasts the quirkiest. Instead of racing horses, residents of the town’s four contrade (districts) pit goose against goose in the Palio del Papero. A street market with crafts and local delicacies keeps spectators entertained until the race begins.

October 12-23: Perhaps the best time to visit Berlin, Germany, is during the annual Festival of Lights (pictured above), when monuments, squares and boulevards all over the city are bathed in wild colors. It’s possible to enjoy the display on foot, of course, but you can also join an organized “Lightseeing” tour by bicycle, boat or bus. Or for something more private, reserve your own horse-drawn carriage or limousine. The “Lichterglanz” at the rococo Sanssouci Palace on October 15 is sure to be particularly memorable, with costumed performers and, of course, specially lit galleries.

October 14-16: Three delightful pursuits come together in Virginia’s Hot Air Balloon, Wine and Music Festival, held in the Shenandoah Valley near Millbrook. Hot air balloons launch at both dawn and dusk, ensuring that one can enjoy sampling the local wines and microbrews at a civilized hour.

October 16: In honor of the goddess Draupadi, Hindu devotees walk barefoot across a bed of hot coals during the Theemidhi Festival at Singapore’s Sri Mariamman Temple. Though white-hot, the four-meter long pile of embers will (in theory) not burn the pure.

October 22: Bonfires and huge torches light up Kurama, a small town near Kyoto, during the Kurama-no-Hi-Matsuri (Fire Festival). Nine-foot-tall “watch fires” blaze at strategic points, and men clad in traditional thongs carry huge pine torches — some more than 15 feet long — through the streets.

October 22-23: Surrounded by rolling hills swathed in picturesque vineyards, the Burgundian town of Chablis shows off its famous whites during the annual Chablis Wine Festival. Purchase a glass for a small fee, and wander from stall to stall sampling a wide variety of these wonderfully crisp, minerally wines.

October 30: Numerous cities host costume parades for Halloween, but surely none does it better than New Orleans. The Krewe of Halloween Parade features elaborately creepy floats and plenty of over-the-top costumes winding their way through the atmospheric decay of the French Quarter. The Monster Bash costume ball follows.

Friday Photos: Amanjiwo

 

Amanjiwo, Java

 

Our submission to the #FriFotos Twitter Campaign (today’s theme is “lights.”) The lobby of Amanjiwo in Borobodur, Java.

 

 

The Austin City Limits Music Festival VIP Experience

 

A sundae from Foreign & Domestic


Each year, thousands of festivalgoers head to Zilker park in Austin, Texas to experience Austin City Limits Music Festival (ACL) for three days of live music, food, and inevitably, crowds. Some of the featured performers this year included Stevie Wonder, Randy Newman and Alison Krauss along with big-name acts like Coldplay and Kanye West.

One way to mitigate some of the hassle is to attend the festival with a VIP pass.  This year, 3-day VIP passes sold for $850 on the ACL website with unlimited VIP Grove access, which included:

    • Gourmet Happy Hour daily with guest chef tastings
    • Complimentary catered food servings throughout the day
    • Complimentary beer, wine, water and specialty drinks
    • Mini spa treatments from Austin’s Viva Day Spa
    • Shade and relaxed seating in the VIP Grove (no stage seating/viewing)
    • Air conditioned restrooms
    • VIP Parking Pass (with purchase of four VIP passes)

We attended the festival as VIPs this year. Some thoughts and observations:

The VIP Grove is an area just to the side of the main entrance populated with large oaks, creating shady patches to spread out a blanket and relax. The shade alone is worth the extra money.  Shady areas should be plentiful in parks, but this is Texas, and shade is prime real estate.  Some of the only shaded areas in the entire venue are carefully roped off for those with VIP, media or artist wristbands. And when the sun is beating down and the regular bathroom line is 10-12 people deep, VIPs have direct access to their own air-conditioned bathrooms.

The main highlight of the VIP Grove is the happy hour.  Running from 3:30- 5:30 PM, gourmet Austin restaurants set up booths that serve bite sized treats adapted from their usual menus.  This year, highlights included a delectable lime and coconut sundae from Foreign & Domestic and chilled cucumber gazpacho and cold octopus salad from El Arbol.  Also of note was a juicy pulled pork sandwich doled out by the executive chef from Congress/ Second Bar & Kitchen. The Grove also features a number of thoughtfully placed Adirondack chairs in which to enjoy the excellent food and drink.

One complaint: the “complimentary” food and refreshments can only be enjoyed in the Grove.  This makes it needlessly difficult to coordinate with large groups who have regular passes. Also, the happy hours never extended until the advertised 5:30 pm hour because they simply ran out of food.

Another minor gripe:  VIP status usually goes hand in hand with exclusivity; however at ACL this is not exactly the case.  The Grove is primarily full of families and children who seem to be benefiting from corporate sponsorship perks.  The real exclusivity is in the Media and Artists Groves (and the coveted “friends of C3” badge will get you behind just about every door or stage in the venue).

If you have a relaxed schedule (where the food and drink are as important as the music), and you are looking for creature comforts amongst heat, crowds and lines, then we certainly suggest the ACL VIP pass. Next year’s festival takes place the weekend of October 12-14. For sit-down evening performances, we highly recommend a visit to the new Austin City Limits Live at the Moody Theater in Austin’s chic 2nd Street District. We have a number of recommended properties in Austin, including The Driskill and the Hotel Saint Cecilia.

 

 

From the Harper Travel Office: It’s Better as a Family


We carry memories with us indefinitely, which is why we encourage families to travel together whenever possible. Travel forges bonds like almost nothing else, and the reminiscing can last for decades. Just as important, travel provides an incredible education your children simply can’t get any other way.

But dealing with the logistics of traveling as a family can be stressful, especially if you don’t have help. The Andrew Harper Travel Office has planned countless journeys for families over the years, and we would be happy to design a vacation precisely customized to your needs.

Thanksgiving and winter breaks provide perfect opportunities for family getaways, and hotel availability need not be a problem if you get a little creative with choosing your destination.

Europe’s festive Christmas markets ooze holiday charm, and the toys, ornaments and treats are sure to delight children. We can arrange for kid-friendly guides and fun activities such as pizza-making classes and puppetry workshops.

If you prefer somewhere warm, don’t try to fight the crowds at the most popular resorts; it’s much more civilized to rent your own villa. After all, many cost the same as what you would spend at an upscale resort, and you have the pool, terrace and grounds all to yourself.

Cruises can make for supremely relaxing family vacations. Unpack once, select a few shore excursions and have a cocktail while the little ones romp in the kids’ club. All major cruise lines recommended by Mr. Harper accept children, but some ships go out of their way to make sure kids have a great time.

On Crystal Cruises, for example, children can take advantage of “Fantasia,” a lounge that offers board games, crafts and video game systems. A Junior Activities Director organizes parties, classes and competitions, and babysitters can be booked through the concierge desk. Notably, Crystal Cruises just became all-inclusive, adding further to its appeal.

Kids grow up all too quickly – be sure to make the most of their school breaks. It’s not too late to plan a vacation they’ll remember for the rest of their lives.

To start planning your family getaway, call the Andrew Harper Travel Office at (800) 375-4685 in the U.S., +1 (630) 734-4610 internationally, or email Reservations@AndrewHarper.com.

Slideshow: Andrew Harper's New Zealand Golf Odyssey

 

Andrew Harper consulted with Lexus Magazine to create the following slideshow inspired by his recent golf journey to New Zealand.

To quote Mr. Harper:

“So why would I consider New Zealand a candidate for the ultimate golf vacation? Its natural beauty is routinely sensational, with glacial mountains and vast, unspoiled beaches. And with so many sites to choose from, golf architects have been able to build courses on the choicest pieces of property. The layouts are never crowded, and the country boasts some of the most deftly designed courses of the modern era.”

Enjoy!

 

‘Challenge the Chef’ at Las Ventanas al Paraíso

Las Ventanas al Paraiso

 

Hotels and resorts routinely offer special menus, dine-in kitchens, cooking classes and other culinary enticements, but Las Ventanas al Paraíso has hit upon something truly unique with its “Challenge the Chef” experience.

Guests staying at this casually elegant resort on Mexico’s Baja Peninsula can try their hands at creating dishes for the restaurant’s menu. After the guest chef discusses a recipe with Executive Chef Fabrice Guisset, he prepares a tray of ingredients, including at least two fresh herbs from the hotel’s garden.  The challenger has an hour to cook in the herb garden’s open-air kitchen before Guisset returns to judge the dish.

If he awards three spoons, the dish appears for a week in the restaurant, with the guest credited on the menu. The successful challenger can also take home a set of complimentary chef’s whites. If the recipe merits two spoons, it appears as a side dish or a special.

Even if the dish is an abject failure, the challenger receives a complimentary shot of tequila to help wash away any disappointment.

We look forward to seeing the names of our culinarily gifted Andrew Harper members grace the menu of Las Ventanas this winter!

Friday Escape: The Reform Club, Long Island

The Reform Club, Long Island

 

When we last visited The Hamptons on Long Island’s East End in spring 2009, The Reform Club had not yet opened, so on my most recent visit to New York, I made a point of retracing my steps. (I had assumed that the unusual name must indicate some connection with the venerable institution on London’s Pall Mall, but the hotel’s website inelegantly insists it is “because we want to encourage change during your visit with us.”) The property is located in Amagansett, a charming hamlet just east of East Hampton. In high season, the latter can seem like Manhattan on the beach, but just 10 minutes away, Amagansett suffers from few of the crowds and traffic jams. There are shops and restaurants, to be sure, but the feel is very much of a small town from bygone days.

Tucked behind privet hedges on Windmill Lane, just north of the Montauk Highway, the charming inn occupies two acres and comprises a main house with seven suites and three outlying cottages. The look is a distillation of The Hamptons’ aesthetic: a classically styled, aging-to-gray shingle house with white woodwork. A high level of craftsmanship is evident throughout and is exemplified by the beautifully laid brick walkway leading to a small gatehouse. There, the innkeeper greeted us warmly before showing us to our suite in the main building. Of the seven, four are on the ground floor and three on the second. Ours came with a woodburning fireplace, a separate small living room with a flat-panel TV and iPod docking (with speakers throughout the suite), a small refrigerator, coffee and tea maker, and complimentary Wi-Fi.

The design was pleasingly simple: white wainscoting walls, dark pine floors with beige carpeting, and a few pieces of contemporary art. The large bath featured a marble mosaic floor, and the custom-made mullioned metal doors led to a large shower with both regular and rainfall heads. Multiple windows admitted ample light and cooling breezes (there is air-conditioning, of course, for when the heat and humidity are too much).

The second-floor suites have cathedral ceilings and share a common bluestone patio with large benches (though this seemed rather like a large landing to me). The downstairs suites have high ceilings and private patios screened by hedges. Suite One, a duplex, offers the best of both worlds.

The three cottages, set apart from each other and separated by hedges, are similarly well-appointed but offer even more privacy and space. The feature I found most appealing was the indoor/outdoor fireplaces, which on the patio are fronted by large daybeds. The cottages also have their own exercise and steam rooms. The largest of these is Cottage One, which has a spacious upstairs bedroom and a small den off the living room with a sleeping couch that could accommodate two younger children.

Both cottage and suite guests have access to a common room that features a pool table, dartboard and various games. A fully equipped kitchen is also available for guest use, and a buffet continental breakfast is laid out each morning. We preferred to have breakfast delivered to our suite. While the inn does not serve other meals, an affiliated restaurant, the Meeting House, is a 10-minute walk away and offers a casual menu with fare such as a fine chopped salad, a pan-roasted steak au poivre, and a locally celebrated mac ’n’ cheese that has become a destination dish in its own right.

Several beautiful beaches are nearby, and the innkeepers can provide you with coveted parking passes for those in both Amagansett and East Hampton. On hand are beach chairs, coolers, umbrellas and plenty of large towels. The inn also has bicycles, and the innkeepers possess encyclopedic knowledge of local activities, attractions and restaurants. Or you might just want to sit in one of the lawn chairs under the embracing shade of the giant copper beech and catch up on your reading.

I was very much taken with The Reform Club. The overall feel of the place seemed consistent with The Hamptons experience I’ve known as a houseguest. That said, I missed having a pool (the only recommended place in the area that has one is The Baker House 1650 in East Hampton). I mentioned this to the innkeeper and was told that this was being worked on, a delicate process given the strict local zoning laws. The cottages already have Jacuzzis, but at the time of our visit, they were not approved for use. Although the summer is prime time on eastern Long Island, The Reform Club would also be appealing at other times of the year.

-A.H.

The Reform Club 93 Suite One (duplex), from $750 (winter weekend) to $1,500 (summer); Cottage One, from $1,050 (winter weekend) to $2,100 (summer). 23 Windmill Lane, Amagansett, New York. Tel. (631) 267-8500.

Ten Notably Wonderful Hotel Pools

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